
A 



NARRATIVE 



OF 

CAPTAIN JAMES FAWCKNER'S 



TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN, 



WEST AFRICA. 



EDITED 

BY A FRIEND OF THE CAPTAIN. 



LONDON: 

PUBLISHED FOR THE PROPRIETOR, BY A. SCHLOSS, 
42, GREAT RUSSELL STREET, BLOOMSBURY. 



1837. 




t 



D. Cahn, Printer, Arlington Street. 



/ 



PREFACE. 

The following* pages contain the Narrative 
of Captain James Fawckner's sufferings and 
sojourn among the tribes of Western Africa, 
in 1825. The work is published by sub- 
scription, and will doubtless be interesting 
principally to his friends and the subscribers 
who have so kindly assisted in bringing it 
out. 

To the public, however, it is presumed, the 
faithful account it contains of the manners 
and customs of those African tribes hitherto 
so little known ; as well as the equally faith- 
ful description of that part of the globe which 
has been but little explored, will prove in- 
teresting and instructive. 



iv 



PREFACE. 



The manuscript was prepared, from the ori- 
ginal notes and papers, by a friend, more than 
two years since, without the most remote idea 
of its ever being published : the heavy 
calamity, however, which deprived Captain 
F. of the principal part of his property, sug- 
gested the idea of repairing his loss, in some 
measure, by publishing the M.S. which that 
individual had written solely for his own in- 
formation and amusement; precisely in the 
form in which he left it, he sends it forth for 
the benefit of his respected friend. 

Editor. 

London, May 3d, 1837. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The Narrative commences from the 28th of 
June, 1825, (the period of my leaving Bad- 
agry,) but it will be necessary perhaps to 
inform the reader, that for some time previous 
to this I had been en^a^ed on the coast of 
Africa. I therefore subjoin a brief account of 
what transpired from the period of my leaving 
England up to the time of the commencement 
of the Narrative, the loss of the ship, &c. 

After leaving England, the vessel I had the 
command of, the " Nymph," was frozen up in 
Amsterdam for three months; at length we 
sailed with a cargo of general goods for the 
Cape of Good Hope. 

We had proceeded on our voyage as far as 
eight degrees north of the equator, and were 



VI 



INTRODUCTION. 



one day busily engaged in saving rain 
water, which fell very copiously, when a most 
violent tornado burst on us, and in a moment 
the vessel was laid on her beam ends. For- 
tunately for us the topmasts and yards gave 
way and the ship righted. We found, how- 
ever, she had sprung a leak, and was making 
about three feet water every hour. We were 
at least 600 miles from the nearest shore, but 
determined on making our way back to St. 
Jagoes as well as we could. We arrived, 
but found it impossible to repair the injury, 
and therefore abandoned the vessel. 

The governor kindly gave me a passage in 
his yacht, to the island of Bonavista, and on 
my arrival I met with a Mr. Waterman a mer" 
chant, who offered me the command of a 
schooner which was about sailing for Sierra 
Leone. Having a great dread of that coast, 
and wishing to return to England, I refused, 
especially as I heard of a vessel at St. Mary's • 
which was bound for Liverpool. I went, there- 
fore, to enquire about her, but to my great 



INTRODUCTION. 



VI! 



disappointment found she had sailed two 
days. 

I was not long here before I was taken ill 
in the fever, which confined me twenty days : 
the doctor who attended me, poor fellow, died 
from it, but I recovered. I remained some 
time in hope of an opportunity of getting back 
to England, but at length I began to be tired, 
and as my purse was getting low, I deter- 
mined on waiting on Mr. Waterman, the mer- 
chant, and take the first thing that offered. 
He was very kind to me, but said he had now 
appointed a captain to the vessel he previously 
offered me the command of, but if I felt dis- 
posed to go as mate, he would give me good 
wages : seeing no prospect of any thing better , 
I accepted. 

We sailed for Sierra Leone, and took dis- 
patches for Sir Charles Macarthy ; who was 
commander of the forces at Cape Coast. On 
our arrival, however, we learned he had 
been killed, with many others of his brave 
companions, by the Ashantees. Our vessel 



via 



INTRODUCTION. 



was retained to carry dispatches along the 
coast, and I was employed to take one hund- 
red soldiers to aid the government frigate, 
" Owen Glendower," in besieging and destroy- 
ing the town of Cormantin. 

After a lapse of six months we returned to 
Sierra Leone, and I was appointed captain of 
the Henry, I again sailed for Cape Coast, 
and was engaged to purchase and supply the 
troops with cattle. I proceeded onto Accarah, 
and took, as passengers, the former governor of 
Cape Coast Castle and his child. Here I had 
the honour of dining with three governors, the 
British, Danish, and Dutch, in less than a fort- 
night after, (as will be seen in a few pages.) 
I was destitute of every thing, and among 
savages. I took leave of the governors and 
sailed for Badagry, where on my arrival the 
vessel was stored with various goods. 



NARRATIVE, fee. 



CHAPTER I, 

On the 28th of June, 1825, 1 sailed from Badagry, 
in the schooner " Henry," of Sierra Leone, with a 
cargo of various goods, to purchase palm-oil and 
ivory from the natives of Benin, on the Rio For- 
mosa. My crew consisted of a supercargo, mate, 
trademan, and cooper, with four natives of Sierra 
Leone, one Portuguese, and four Kroomen. Hav- 
ing passed Lagos, we continued on our passage till 
noon on the following day, (29th,) when the 
wind blowing fresh from the S.W. with thick wea- 
ther and heavy rain, we hove-to, fearing to over- 
shoot our port which I concluded could not be 
far distant. Shortly after, however, the weather 
cleared up, and we saw the land to the N.N.E., 
about four miles distant ; when, having sounded 
and found it nine fathoms water, with a muddy 



4 



TRAVELS ON THE 



ground, we bore up and made sail. Soon after 
this, perceiving the water to be discoloured, and 
encountering a considerable surf, we again sounded, 
and were surprised to find it only two and a 
quarter fathoms; the more so, as I had consulted 
my chart and found it marked " four fathoms of 
water ; " not the least mention being made of any 
shoals at this part of the coast. 

The wind at this time, was to the S.S.W., and 
our course S.E. by E. along the shore, so that we 
could not get the vessel much off the land ; but by 
persevering in keeping close to the wind, we suc- 
ceeded at length in getting her into three fathoms 
and a half, at 6, p.m., when we anchored. 

On the succeeding morning, June 30th, we again 
got under weigh, and ran down parallel with the 
land with a S.W. wind, when we fancied we saw 
the entrance of the river Benin on our lee-bow, 
but were deceived ; and on sounding were much 
astonished to find the water had again shoaled to 
two fathoms and a quarter, and still kept decreasing. 
We endeavoured, as before, to keep her as close to 
the wind as possible ; but as it was blowing strong, 
and the surf running very high, the vessel being 



COAST OF BENIN, 



8 



light, necessarily drifted toward the land; our 
only alternative therefore was at once to run on 
shore, or come to an anchor. We of course chose 
the latter without delay, and let go both our an- 
chors. At midnight, finding a quantity of water in 
the hold, as the sea made a clear passage over us, 
we resolutely set to work at the pumps ; but 

" Misfortunes come not as single spies ;" 

for no sooner had we begun, than the pumps 
were choked, the boxes broken, and we had 
no others to use in their stead. We then com- 
menced baling out of the lazaret, which, although a 
tedious and slow way, we were obliged to persist 
in, until she was sufficiently relieved ; when a strong 
current having made to the westward, which threw 
her athwart the sea, we decided on hoisting the 
mainsail in order to keep her to the wind. About 
four o'clock the next morning, July 1st, the wind 
blew from the land, and we began to get up our an- 
chors, and set all sail, hoping to get off. However, 
to our great disappointment, we found that the vessel 
could not make any headway against the heavy surf 
a 2 



4 



TRAVELS ON THE 



that was running, and, in fact, was rapidly drifting 
ashore. We were therefore obliged to bring up 
again ; and now our anchors would not hold, but 
still drifting toward the shore, at 1, p. M., she struck 
abaft and unshipped the rudder. We contrived to 
get a rope rove through the head, and hoisted it 
up alongside, but all hope of getting off now en- 
tirely disappeared ; and continuing to drift in at 5, 
p. M., she finally grounded in the mud, with her 
head toward the sea. The natives on the coast 
came down to the water, and made signs with their 
clothes for us to come on shore; but this we de- 
clined, being much tired with our exertions of 
baling and watching. About 6, P.M., some of 
them came on board, and pretended great friendship 
for us. From one of the crew, who was a native 
of Benin, and had been made a slave by the 
Brazilians, we ascertained, that the place on which 
we were driven, was Mongyee, a province belong- 
ing to the king of Benin, about fifteen or twenty 
miles west of Benin Bar, and that the natives were 
engaged there in the manufacturing of salt. The 
vessel lay all night without receiving the least 
damage, as the ground was very soft. On the 



COAST OF BENIN, 



5 



following morning it was agreed that the super- 
cargo, his assistant, mate, and part of the crew, 
should go on shore, and if possible make arrange- 
ments with the chief for conveying the cargo to the 
city of Benin. About nine o'clock they returned, 
and informed me that the chief had behaved very 
kindly to them, and offered one of their houses for 
a warehouse, and would get the property removed 
to Benin as soon as possible ; advising that it 
should be conveyed on shore without delay. One 
of the chiefs came on board, as we imagined, to 
protect the property. He was dressed in an old 
bluejacket, with a cloth tied around his loins ; his 
head was covered with coral beads, thickly strung 
on his black curly wool, which flowed out from 
underneath an old brown slouched hat ; his neck, 
ancles, and wrists, were also encircled with a pro- 
fusion of strings of coral. Some of the natives 
who had come with him, had a single string round 
their necks, but the quantity he displayed, joined to 
the air of imaginary dignity he manifested, as he 
strutted up and down the deck, left no doubt on 
our minds that he was of a superior grade to those 
who accompanied him. 



6 



TRAVELS ON THE 



We immediately commenced discharging the 
cargo, which consisted principally of iron bars; 
but found that as soon as we put them over the 
side that the thieves ran away with them ; and out 
of forty bars, only four of them arrived at the 
warehouse on shore. A trunk of valuable clothes 
was also sent with them ; but on the way it was 
opened, and plundered of its contents. We there- 
fore deferred discharging any more till a better 
opportunity might offer. 

Things now began to assume a dismal aspect, and 
I feared it was more than probable the natives would 
make an attempt on the ship, and also on our per- 
sons during the night ; as soon therefore as they left 
the vessel, we loaded six muskets with slugs, and 
made the best preparations we could to protect our 
lives and property. About five, we saw a great 
number of men come down near the vessel, all armed 
with weapons, accompanied by the same old villain 
of a chief. When on board I had lent him my sword 
to keep off the thieves, and on leaving he took it 
away with him. I could now plainly perceive him 
parading up and down with it on shore, his men 
drawn up, and he apparently exercising them. No 



COAST OF BENIN. 



7 



captain strutting at the head of his corps ever assumed 
half as much importance as did this old rogue in his 
blue jacket, slouched hat, and ornaments of coral, as 
he paced backwards and forwards, displaying the 
most uncouth gesticulations, and dazzling the eyes 
of his awkward troop with my polished blade. Much, 
however, as we were amused at seeing them, we were 
not without apprehension as to their intentions to- 
ward us ; but at this time the tide was up, which ef- 
fectually prevented their coming on board, however 
they might have wished it When it was high water 
we succeeded in heaving the vessel off the shore a 
little by her best bower anchor, which had held fast, 
and kept her head to the surf from the moment she 
first struck ; and could we have managed to get her 
out so far, that when it was low water the tide might 
surround her, we might have eventually got off, or at 
least prevented the natives from boarding us ; but this 
could not be effected, not having a boat with which 
we could run on another anchor. The supercargo, 
who went on shore with others of the crew, came down 
near the vessel, when a number of the natives sur- 
rounded him, as if they wished to communicate some- 
thing, and one of the rascals had the audacity to 



TRAVELS ON THE 



steal his hat from off his head. We could have shot 
the fellow with the greatest ease, but forbore, as we 
feared the natives might in revenge cut our people 
on shore to pieces. 

In the evening they sent on board for some 
rum to give the chiefs, and requested a few cut- 
lasses to guard the property ; but both were taken 
away as soon as landed, and all the property in 
the warehouse torn from them by force, their 
lives being in danger had they attempted to make 
the least resistance. In this dreadful state of sus- 
pense, not knowing how matters would end, they 
spent the night in a most miserable apartment, 
up to their ancles in mud, with no other food than 
Indian corn, although we had sent them plerity 
of meat, which the thieves invariably stole as soon 
as it arrived on shore. On board we were all on 
the watch, fearing they might come in the night 
and murder us in our beds ; and we were not wrong 
in our surmises ; for during the night they made three 
attempts, but we succeeded in driving them away 
by our continued noise and shouting. 

In the morning as soon as day dawned, we per- 
ceived a number of men on the strand, with four 



COAST OF BENIN. 



9 



canoes ready to launch as soon as the tide should 
fall away. It was not long before they came off, 
and with them the old chief, who had now a loaded 
pistol in his hand, which we conceived was for his 
own protection when he came on board. A great 
number of those who were with him attempted to 
follow, but I prevailed on him to keep them off for 
a short time. They, however, gradually stole on us, 
one by one, and the decks were soon filled. They 
were then ordered to sit down, which they did 
for about an hour ; when, on some private signal 
being made, they simultaneously rose, and be- 
gan to plunder various small articles about the 
decks. We now clearly saw their base designs, 
and looked anxiously toward the shore for our 
people, to whom I had written the preceding 
night to come on board immediately, as I feared 
the ship would be taken from us ; but no chance 
now appeared of their being able to render us 
any assistance, and we made up our minds for 
the worst. 

The Chiefs who observed my expressions of an- 
ger at this promiscuous pilfering, beckoned to 
me, to place the things in the cabin, and sit 



10 



TRAVELS ON THE 



down before the entrance to protect them, saying 
at the same time, " Teef man, teef man, Cappee." 
This I saw was a mere scheme to place me in such 
a position, that they might the more easily fall on 
and pinion me. I was at a loss how to act, and 
felt that unless immediate assistance were afforded, 
we should soon be compelled to surrender, or perish 
in attempting to defend ourselves. At this moment 
I looked toward the shore, and saw the supercargo, 
mate, and crew, coming down the beach, but in- 
stead of being able to render us any assistance, I 
discovered that they themselves were prisoners and 
under a strong guard. This seemed the signal of 
action to those on board, for immediately the ruth- 
less barbarians fell upon us, bound us hand and 
foot, and with a halter around each of our necks 
we were thrown down on the deck, stripped of our 
clothes, and of every article on our persons, even 
to the knives which our men used to suspend from 
their necks, whilst a fierce wretch stood over us with 
an axe ready to kill us if we made any resistance. 

The vessel was now full of men, all busily en- 
gaged in the work of plunder and destruction. 
Some were cutting the ring-bolts out of the deck, 



COAST OF BENIN, 



which they did with singular dexterity ; whilst others 
were plundering the cargo and dividing the spoil 
On discovering a few kegs of powder and a num- 
ber of muskets, their joy exceeded all bounds ; 
and, for a moment, they stood still, and raised 
one simultaneous yell, or shout, to express their 
satisfaction and delight. The noise rang through 
our ears, and gave a very sensible idea of an 
African war-whoop. A heart-stirring one it cer- 
tainly was to me ; it echoed through the woods on 
shore, which reverberated back the sound as if it 
were the reply of the inhabitants of the coast to 
their fortunate brethren on board. 

One of our men, on hearing the noise, immediately 
jumped over board, and ran away to the crew ashore ; 
but only increased their terror, by giving them to 
understand that I and all that remained on board 
were murdered. 

The savages did not long remain inactive over 
their booty ; a general scramble ensued . for the 
muskets and powder ; and as there was not enough 
to supply all of them, and each was desirous to se- 
cure to himself as much as possible, no sooner had 
one been so fortunate as to obtain a musket, than he 



12 



TRAVELS ON THE 



was dispossessed of it by another ; iron bars which 
they had taken, served also as offensive and de- 
fensive weapons ; and in the midst of all this riot, 
confusion, and noise, I was lashed to the deck, 
fearing every moment that my brains would be 
knocked out by the barbarians who were fighting 
over me. 

Another party discovered a few small looking- 
glasses ; and, if possible, these excited more attention 
than the muskets ; and in their eager attempts to 
get them, that each might u hold the mirror up to 
nature/' they literally broke them in a thousand 
pieces about the deck. 

All this time we were bound so tight about our 
necks that the cords nearly strangled us ; the sun 
shone most fervently on my head and distressed me 
greatly, causing an intolerable burning, languor, 
and thirst. They had stripped me of my clothes, 
and taken away my hat, so that I was completely 
exposed to the burning rays of a tropical sun. At a 
little distance from me on the deck was a small 
wash tub ; I made several ineffectual attempts to 
get it on my head, and at length by dint of ex- 
ertion and accommodating my head to it, I got it 



COAST OF BENIN, 



13 



fairly on. The pleasure I felt at my success, I can 
hardly describe ; such a hat was never seen before ; 
the shade, however, it afforded to my burning tem- 
ples was peculiarly grateful, and all thoughts of ap- 
pearance were now swallowed up in that great law 
of nature, self-preservation. 

In this state I lay for two hours, while the na- 
tives deliberately cut the vessel, with her sails and 
rigging, to pieces. They manifested a strong de- 
sire for iron work, which appeared more valuable 
to them than gold. The vessel abounded in small 
ring bolts ;* these they would cut with remarkable 
facility from the hard Brazil wood, with only a com- 
mon axe. 

A ray of hope at length seemed to dawn upon 
us. Faint indeed it was, but we hailed it as the 
harbinger of a better and brighter day, and like the 
drowning man who grasps a straw, we clung to it 
in our present miserable condition. A man who 
could speak a little English came on board, 
Whether his slight acquaintance with the language 
had instilled more of the " milk of human kind- 

* She was once a slave ship, and these rings were used in 
chaining the slaves. 



14 



TRAVELS ON THE 



ness," into his breast than was common to the 
savages, I know- not ; but it was evident that he 
possessed it, from some cause, in a pleasing degree, 
and seemed to sympathise with us in our dreadful 
condition. We prevailed on him to loosen our 
bandages, which he did, and allowed me to sit up 
on a stool, which I felt at the time to be a very 
great luxury, especially as it afforded me an 
opportunity of seeing that portion of my crew on 
shore. They had been down several times very near 
the vessel, but were prohibited from coming on 
board. This man also went to the chief to enquire 
if we might go ashore ; the reply to which was, that 
we should, but that he did not know whether our 
heads would not be taken off as soon as we arrived. 

The posture in which my friend had placed me, 
allowed me to see that all around me was a wreck. 
They had completely rifled the cargo, and the old 
chief had taken all my property to himself, except- 
ing only what he deemed to be of no service to 
him, viz., my books, charts, &c, which he had thrown 
overboard. Seeing one of the men cutting up the 
mainsail I begged him to give me a piece of it to 
cover myself, being quite naked ; and also another 



COAST OF BENIN, 



15 



piece to wrap round my head, for I could not well 
keep on my wooden hat, as it was not only too 
large, but I began to suffer inconvenience from its 
weight. I thought, therefore, I might do better with 
a piece of sail cloth, and manufacture something 
in the shape of a cap. With a great deal of reluct- 
ance he at length consented to give me a small 
portion of it, and very soon Tattired myself as well 
as I could in my grotesque dress. Soon after this 
the men were unloosed, and we prepared to go on 
shore, by dropping off from the main boom on the 
ground, which was a soft bed of mud ; and tugging 
along on our hands and knees through it, we at 
length succeeded in reaching dry land, being 
exceedingly tired with the exertion after the cruel 
treatment we had experienced on board for so 
many hours. "When I reached the shore I looked 
back to see my late gallant bark, where she lay 
divested of all her beauty, the rigging cut away, 
and the masts ready to fall. She that had so lately 
spread her sails to the gale, courted fhe breeze, 
and been kissed by the sportive ripples as they 
passed, was now a lone desolate thing on a barba- 
rian shore. How well the descriptive lines of the 



16 TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 

poet accorded with the scene of devastation and 
spoil, 

Behold yon black and batter' d hulk, 

That slumbers o'er the tide ; 
There is no sound from stem to stern, 

For they had pluck' d her pride. 

The masts are down, the cannons mute, 

She shows nor sheet nor sail ; 
Nor starts forth with the seaward breeze, 

Nor answers shout nor hail. 

Her merry men with all their mirth, 

Have sought some other shore ; 
And she with all her glory on 

Shall rule the sea no more. 



CHAPTER II. 



From the contemplation of the wreck of my 
vessel, I naturally turned to the wreck of my fortune. 
I knew not whither I was going, or what my fate 
might be on a foreign and inhospitable shore, sub- 
ject doubly to every privation and danger. I gave 
one last look at the u Henry," and turned my 
eyes toward shore, where I saw the supercargo 
and the rest of the crew, who were awaiting our 
arrival. We were soon with them, and tears of 
mutual affection and joy flowed down our cheeks ; 
for we then esteemed it a happiness to have the 
prospect of dying together. The curious appear- 
ance I made in my new dress, however, caused a 
momentary smile ; for never, since the days of Ro- 
binson Crusoe, was a human being so strangely or 

roughly habited. Before me marched the old chief 
B 



18 



TEAVELS ON THE 



with a sword, and another addition to the list of 
articles before mentioned, viz., a flute. This he 
had discovered on board, but not knowing the 
precise use of it, perhaps he thought it of extraor- 
dinary value, and accordingly he had taken pecu- 
liar care of it, and was strutting before me with it 
under his arm. 

Proceeding onwards we soon arrived at their huts, 
but were not allowed to enter. 

Here we remained for some hours, whilst they 
held a consultation as to what should be done with 
us. Exposed as I was to the scorching rays of 
the sun, my neck began to get very sore and 
painful. I determined therefore to ask the old 
chief for one of my shirts. I did so ; but what was 
my grief in approaching his house to behold all 
my clothes hung out to dry, as if entirely appro- 
priated ; and on enquiring for him was immediately 
ordered back to the place from whence I came. 
This indeed made my heart ache, but there was 
no alternative. I returned to my companions with 
a sorrowful countenance and received comfort in 
their sympathy under my disappointment and 
distress. 



COAST OF BENIN. 



19 



Whilst I was brooding over my misfortunes and 
receiving their consolations, we saw the old chief 
approaching ; he came to me, and had somewhat 
relented, for he actually was liberal enough to bring 
with him a shirt and an old pair of trousers. 

This unexpected liberality not only raised my 
spirits, but was welcomed by us all, for we consid- 
ered this circumstance as a good omen; inferring 
from it, that had it been their intention to kill 
us, they would hardly have brought such means 
of accommodation. 

"We were then ordered by him to go into the 
same hut that had been used as a store-house for 
our property. Here we spent the night in a very 
uncomfortable manner, not having sufficient room 
to lie down ; and the swarms of musquitoes which 
infested the place were a constant source of annoy- 
ance. A thought of making our escape suggested 
itself for a moment, but we soon saw the utter 
impracticability of such a thing, as the country 
was quite inundated, and we were total strangers 
in it. 

About midnight we were much alarmed at hear- 
ing the chiefs and others making a great noise. 
b2 



20 



TRAVELS ON THE 



They had been making free with some mm which 
had been brought from the vessel. Our fear was, 
that in their state of inebriation, they would come 
and murder us ; but, thank God, they did not come 
near us, and we were relieved from our alarm 
at dawn of day. 

In the course of the morning we sent to the 
chief, and begged he would forthwith send us 
away, as we feared we should get sick and die 
there. He returned answer that we should be 
sent away soon ; but his subsequent conduct gave 
us to fear to the contrary, and that we should be 
detained many days. 

The chiefs held several meetings and consulta- 
tions together to determine our fate : the principal 
object, it appeared, was to make slaves of the 
blacks belonging to the crew, which, however, they 
feared to do, as they were free men. Several 
times the chiefs called to see us, and their whole 
attention seemed to be fixed on those men, who 
were fine athletic fellows, and doubtless would 
have been a prize, could they have made slaves of 
them. Repeated assurances were made that we 
should be soon sent away ; and they further stated 



COAST OF BENIN. 



21 



that a large canoe was being built to convey us 
to Benin. 

During our stay we were much amused with the 
superstitious fears of the old chief, who at different 
times returned several of our books, as he feared 
to open them, conceiving they were fetish, or 
charms. 

On one occasion he brought a large folio bible 
belonging to the supercargo, which had given him 
great uneasiness and disquiet of mind ; he there- 
fore thought it advisable at once to get rid of it ; 
and, dressed in my jacket, with one of my nightcaps 
under his hat, this curious old fellow came to us 
with the great volume under his arm ; several of 
the natives accompanied him, who had all come to 
the conclusion that it was the white man's fetish. 
We were willing to take advantage of their fear ; 
and holding the sacred volume in one hand, I 
pointed with the other to the sky, telling them, at 
the same time, it was God's book. They seemed 
much impressed, if we might judge from their 
countenances, as they withdrew at a respectful 
distance from it, but their awe soon subsided 
into amazement and surprise, when we opened 



22 



TRAVELS ON THE 



the book and began shewing them the pictures it 
contained. They then looked over our shoulder s, 
and seemed highly pleased, as we turned over the 
leaves, not daring to touch it all the time. 

After we had gone through the whole, our 
group of blacks, who had formed a thick hedge 
of woolly heads around us, with a continued 
smile upon their black visages, and a line of 
grinning mouths, white teeth, and thick lips on 
every side, began to disperse. At last all drew 
off, and left us again to ourselves. It was a great 
source of merriment to us, although in such a 
miserable condition, and possessed of so small a 
wardrobe, to witness the pride the chief took in 
dressing himself in our old clothes, and the various 
attempts he made to deceive us ; for there seemed 
something of English spirit in him, being exceed- 
ingly tenacious of his honour and integrity. He 
made many ludicrous attempts to convince us 
the dress was his own. Sometimes he changed 
and varied them, wearing a dress composed partly 
from my wardrobe, and partly from that of the 
supercargo ; but what pleased us most was to see 
him strutting about one day with my best surtout, 



COAST OF BENIN. 



23 



the first time he had sported it ; and without doubt 
he thought, he should effectually deceive me by 
the collar being turned up. 

The population of the town of Mongyee, I should 
suppose to be about three hundred, and the houses 
about thirty. They are built upon a piece of 
ground surrounded by water and beds of long 
rushes, and standing on an elevation of about three 
feet from the level of the water. The huts are 
square, and formed like wicker work, of branches 
of the bamboo ; the foliage prevents the rain from 
beating in. The door is formed of bamboo sticks 
woven close together like hurdles, and is hung to 
the side posts by a slip of tough wood, which 
serves the purpose of hinges. 

Although the town itself is small, yet there are 
a great many huts scattered about in the bush, or 
woods, and from the number of men that beset the 
vessel, and whom we subsequently saw passing 
along the coast, I conclude there must be many 
such villages in the neighbourhood, 

I did not see the process of making salt, but re- 
marked a quantity of baskets formed from the rind 
of the bamboo, which were suspended over earthen 



24 



TRAVELS ON THE 



vessels, or calabashes. They contained sand and 
dirty water, which filtered through into the calabash 
below. I concluded from this that they were not 
able to get pure salt water ; as the water near the 
shore, in consequence of the constant surf, becomes 
very foul and muddy. 

The women appear to be very clever at weaving, 
by the hand, mats of a fibrous wood ; and appro- 
priate the bamboo tree to a variety of uses. If this 
tree be tapped at the head, and a jar applied, it 
yields the bamboo wine; a very pleasing drink, 
similar to our English ginger beer. The branches 
serve to build their huts, the rind to tie them 
together instead of nails, and the leaves furnish 
an excellent covering for the roof. In fact there 
is no part but what is devoted to some useful 
purpose. 

Two governors preside over the town ; the one 
our disinterested old friend who has been so often 
mentioned before; the other a venerable old man 
who, from his appearance, and the grey wool on his 
head, I should conceive to be above four-score. 
This hoary-headed old sinner received the stolen 
property from the ship, whilst the other was play- 



COAST OF BENIN, 



25 



ing his part as thief on board. They appeared to 
have great command and authority over the natives, 
who, before they have any conversation with them, 
fall down on their knees, with their hands in a 
praying position, continuing to rub them one against 
another till they deign to return a favourable an- 
swer, or command them to rise, 



CHAPTER IIL 



On the eighth day of our stay at Mongyee, we 
were told the canoe was ready, and that the gover- 
nors intended to convey us to Gatto, that being the 
trade town to Benin. About nine o'clock I em- 
barked with the supercargo, clerk, and cooper, 
besides two boys to pole the canoe, and the 
man who had loosened our bandages in the ship. 
The rest of the crew were to follow us, and for the 
present we took leave of each other, and proceeded 
for the town of Yarcella. 

After poling the canoe for the distance of about 
two miles through the reeds or long grass which 
surrounded the town of Mongyee, (the appearance 
of which is very picturesque, and may be compared 
to sailing through a beautiful field of corn), we 
emerged into an extensive wood, composed of trees 



TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 



27 



of the most luxuriant growth and varied foliage. 
Not aspot of dry ground was any where visible. As 
far as the eye could stretch through the long vista 
of trees one calm sheet of water extended its un- 
ruffled silvery surface, unstirred, save when the 
gold fish that now and then leaped from its bosom 
formed a series of wide spreading rings from the 
spot so disturbed ; or the bird that skimmed lightly 
over it in search of food. It was indeed a delight- 
ful spot, and we felt it to be so ; although our lives, to 
all human appearance, were suspended by a slender 
thread, liable to be divided in a moment by the 
caprice of those by whom we were attended. We 
could not, however, be blind or insensible, whilst 
surrounded with so much to admire and interest us, 
as the canoe proceeded, propelled by the two boys 
with their long poles ; — sometimes through a long 
avenue of trees, the tops of which had entwined 
themselves together, and formed a canopy over our 
heads, where birds of most delightful plumage and 
of sweetest note hopped from twig to twig, enjoy- 
ing occasional shelter from the noontide ray which, 
this umbrageous retreat afforded. At times the 
canoe pursued a zig zag course through the trees> 



28 



TRAVELS ON THE 



often passing between the roots of others, which 
grew considerably above the surface, and meeting 
together, formed the trunk. Through this archway 
we glided till we arrived at another, or a series of 
them, some very lofty and forming a perfect gothic 
arch reared by nature's hands ; others irregular, and 
so low as to oblige us to lie down in the canoe 
whilst we passed under them. In this manner we 
travelled on for several hours, threading the natural 
and picturesque maze, till we arrived at a sort of 
half-way house, built on a little spot of dry land ; 
where, to our great surprise, we found the old chief, 
with my cabin boy, whom he had brought with him 
from Yarcella, he having come by some other, and 
probably a nearer route. 

Having taken a fresh supply of Indian corn, we 
again embarked, and proceeded on towards Yar- 
cella. 

The approach to this place is very picturesque. 
A row of stupendous palm trees, with the huts of 
the natives scattered between them, marks the 
entrance to the town, and the landing place. There 
we arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon, and 
were honoured by a visit from a great number of 



COAST OF BENIN 



29 



the natives, who came down to the water to see us. 
We could not conceive how they should have 
known that we were coming, till we found that the 
crew of the other canoe had arrived before us, and 
given notice of our approach. 

We were ordered into a small hut, and some 
bamboo wine was brought to refresh and cheer us. 
It is by no means an unpleasant beverage, and 
produces intoxication like other wines if taken to 
excess. It ferments quickly, but will not keep 
longer than twelve hours ; the Portuguese often 
employ it as a yeast in making their bread. 

In the evening, according to the custom of the 
country, we sent a handkerchief to the governor to 
announce our arrival, and requested an audience. 
This was soon granted, and we were conducted to 
his house. We found him in a square court, or 
yard, seated on a bench ; he was an old man, and 
wore a long robe, ornamented with a profusion of 
couries, small shells used by them as money. 
Beside him was seated the old chief of Mongyee, 
apparently enjoying the honour conferred on him in 
being placed by the side of a greater and more 
powerful ruler. 



30 



TRAVELS ON THE 



As we advanced toward them, our humane friend, 
who accompanied us as linguist, suggested that 
we should prostrate ourselves before them, accor- 
ding to the usage of the country. The thought 
was humiliating enough, but for the sake of expe- 
diency we conformed to the custom, and dropped 
on our knees before the throne of these sable 
personages. We were then ordered to rise and 
seat ourselves on a long stool, whilst they descen- 
ded and presented each of us with a red goora nut 
as a token of friendship. In addition to the humi- 
liating act we had just performed, we found it 
necessary for our safety to speak well of the man 
who had robbed us of all our property, and who 
had been the means of bringing us into the coun- 
try in the destitute state in which we then presen- 
ted ourselves before the governor. After gazing 
at us for some time they ordered us to withdraw 
and return to our hut* 

Shortly after our arrival we received some yams, 
Indian corn, and plantains. This cheered us a 
little, and we began to eat, and endeavoured to be 
as happy as our circumstances would admit. 

In the course of the evening we saw the old 



COAST OF BENIN. 



31 



chief, (I can give him no other name or title,) and 
prevailed on him to give us back the flute which 
he had taken from the ship, conceiving that we 
might work on the feelings of the natives by it, and 
at the same time amuse ourselves. We were not 
deceived ; for as soon as it was played, numbers of 
people came round us, attracted by the novelty of 
its tone, and each one in his turn looked eagerly 
up at the bore at the end, to see, as they said, "the 
tunes come out." Our compass had been preser- 
ved, and it excited a great deal of attention also. 
They could not imagine how the card acted and 
twisted, and turned the box round every way to 
see if it was not buoyed up with water. 

Our fame rapidly spread abroad, and the story 
of the flute and compass attracted great numbers 
to the spot, most of whom brought us provisions. 
They seemed, however, to fear us greatly ; for if we 
attempted to move they would start back as if 
some venomous beast was before them. 

We slept during the night on a bed formed of 
bamboos placed close together, and covered with 
country cloth ; from the fatigue we had experienced, 
by our long confinement in the canoes, we enjoyed 



32 



TRAVELS ON THE 



our rest, and our repose was sweet and uninter- 
rupted. 

In the morning we rose and took a walk in the 
town, which is situated on an island, and is doubt- 
less a place of note in the country. It is far supe- 
rior to Mongyee, and I should suppose contained 
about a thousand inhabitants. There are several 
chiefs, all of whom wear a quantity of coral, and 
seem to have great authority and command over 
the inhabitants, who, whether male or female, never 
pass by without first falling on their hands and 
knees before them. 

We approached their houses, which are all 
built together, forming an oblong square, at the 
head of which stands the fetish hut. The walls of 
this building are of clay, and are covered in with 
rafters, across which branches of bamboo are laid 
and tied down. There are no windows, but an 
aperture in the middle of the roof serves to let in 
the light, under which stands a cistern or tank, 
which conveys the rain away through holes into 
the ground , Round it is a walk about three feet 
wide, where the people dance to the sound of 
their drums ; and he who can make the most 



COAST OF BENIN, 



33 



grotesque figure, and play the most laughable 
pranks, is held in highest esteem by the specta- 
tors. 

In the centre is a bench formed of brown clay, 
which, by frequent rubbing with a piece of cocoa-nut 
shell and wet cloths, has received a polish, and 
when dry looks like marble. Here is placed the 
fetish; there is a young tree beside it stripped 
of all its foliage, and at the foot an earthen pot 
containing skeletons of animals, crooked sticks, and 
such unseemly trifles, which the people ignorantly 
and superstitiously venerate and worship. 

As we were walking about we were met by 
some of the chiefs, who took notice of us, with 
seeming kindness. One of them invited us to his 
house, and requested, as a favour, that we would 
bring the flute : accordingly the supercargo, clerk, 
and myself, accepted the invitation, and went 
carrying with us the far-famed flute, which excited 
more attention than all of us put together. We 
found him waiting to receive us, dressed in an old 
fashioned coat extravagantly ornamented with lace, 
a cloth of very fine texture encircling his loins. 
We had not been long in the house when refresh* 
c 



34 



TRAVELS ON THE 



ments were set before us, consisting of a boiled 
fowl and some yams, which were served up in a 
wash-hand basin ; and for spoons we had some 
shells Fearing there might be poison in the dish, 
we requested the chief to eat with us, which he 
readily consented to do. In order to prove that 
there was nothing injurious in the food he took up 
a leg of fowl, and having sucked it, replaced it in 
the dish. At any other time this might have 
proved an unsavoury morsel, but now we found 
indeed that u hunger is good sauce ;" Ave therefore 
all ate from it heartily. 

Our host was very impatient to hear the flute, 
and requested the accompaniment of our voices 
also. We consented, but previous to our com- 
mencing, each drank a very fair share of palm wine, 
which had been set before us purposely to " whet 
our whistles/ ' 

After finishing our meal, and having 64 taken our 
wine," we struck up u Rule Britannia," although 
by no means in accordance with our situation, nor 
with our feelings at this moment ; yet we managed 
to get on very well, till we came to the line, "And 
Britons never never will be slaves." 



COAST OF BENIN. 



35 



Let the reader imagine our feelings !— Indeed I 
was surprised that we had been so injudicious as to 
select a song containing sentiments so much at 
variance with our condition at that moment. How- 
ever, we proceeded, and finished, much to the 
amusement and gratification of our host. 

Our time, for several days following, was fully 
taken up in visiting the different chiefs, all of 
whom were exceedingly anxious that we should 
come and amuse them with our singing and the 
flute. And as Goldsmith when he travelled on the 
continent, and approached a village, invariably took 
out his German flute, and played one of his 
merriest tunes, is said never to have found it fail in 
procuring him a night's lodging, or filling his belly 
when he was hungry, so we found that our little 
knowledge of music procured us many a kind 
attention and refreshing meal. 

Some of the people who came to see us, intima- 
ted that something was at once going to be done, 
with us " white men," and the blacks were to be 
made slaves of. This alarmed us greatly, and the 
more so as we could not ascertain the truth of the 
report, or what punishment was intended for us. 
c 2 



36 



TRAVELS ON THE 



All we could gather was from the clerk, who 
understood their language very imperfectly. More- 
over the guard who had the care of us seemed 
very much agitated in his sleep, as if his conscience 
was burthened with something respecting us. In 
fact, every thing seemed to portend the approach of 
some dreadful termination of our present misery. 

It happened at this time that the governor's 
son died, and there were great preparations for his 
funeral. A large hall was hung with the most 
superb cloths of the country, like tapestry, and in 
the middle of the apartment was a quantity of bowls, 
containing u fu-fu," a sort of dumpling, made of 
pounded yams. This " fu-fu" they eat with a 
rich soup made from the fore legs of monkeys, and 
occasionally with fish. It is esteemed by them a 
dainty dish ; but being so highly seasoned with 
their strong pepper few Europeans can touch it. 

At night a number of people repaired to the 
hall, and made a great noise. The drums began 
to beat, and we feared we should be sacrificed at 
once to the shade of the departed youth. Deter- 
mined, however, to sell our lives as dearly as possi- 
ble, each armed himself with a bamboo stick : to 



COAST OF BENIN. 



37 



escape was impossible, as we were on an island, and 
surrounded on all sides with dangers and difficul- 
ties ; we therefore laid down on our beds with our 
arms near us, in case we should have occasion to 
use them. "We had not been long in bed before 
we were aroused by one of them crying out, "they 
will murder us all in an instant we all sprang 
from our beds, and caught hold of our guard, who 
had accompanied us from Mongyee, craving his 
protection, or vowing he should share our fate, 
whatever it might be. We clung to him like 
sinking mariners, whilst he stood as if transfixed 
with horror. He did not speak or utter a syllable, 
although among us the most death-like silence 
prevailed ; but we felt the flesh on his arms and 
body quiver, and the hard beating of his heart told 
the anguish which prevailed there was ominous of 
the fate of the unhappy beings who were in his 
custody. 

In this state we remained anxiously awaiting our 
fate ; but finding no one entered the apartment, we 
began to relax the firm gripe we had on our terror- 
stricken guard, and to seek for an explanation of 
the cause of the disturbances. 



38 



TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 



Fortunately for us it was a false alarm : one of 
the natives had been sent (doubtless from some 
bad motive) to see if we were on the watch. 
Having penetrated into the apartment where some 
of our men slept, he saw a water-jar, which he took 
a fancy too, and was about to decamp with it, when 
the noise he made awoke one of them, who jumped 
out of bed immediately, pursued the thief, and 
struck him a blow, which so staggered him, that he 
dropped the jar, and made his escape as fast as his 
legs would carry him. 

The others waking at the noise caused by the 
pursuit, thought the house was beset, and im- 
mediately one scene of bustle commenced, and the 
first impression was that they were all about to be 
murdered. This caused them to cry out in the 
manner which so alarmed us in the other room. 

We were happy it was no worse, but it com- 
pletely spoiled our rest for the remainder of the 
night. The only relief to our anxious minds, was 
the dawn of day, which we hailed with unusual 
pleasure and delight. 



CHAPTER IV 



For eight successive nights we lay down, not 
knowing that we should ever rise again ; no faith 
was to be placed in these people, and the fear which 
our guard so often betrayed, convinced us there was 
some dreadful secret respecting us, lodged within 
that bosom, which had beaten with such violence 
on the night of adventure before mentioned. 

On the morning of the ninth day we received a 
supply of Indian corn and plantains for our journey, 
and about eight o'clock we took our departure 
from Yarcella, A large canoe, laden with salt, 
awaited our arrival at the banks of the river, and 
accompanied by several natives bearing blunder- 
busses, muskets, and swords, we proceeded through 
the rushes by poling as before. At some little 
distance from the shore they discharged their 



40 



TRAVELS ON THE 



pieces by way of salute, and immediately reloaded 
them. 

We had not proceeded far through the thick bed 
of rushes, before we opened into a beautiful river. 
The sudden transition from the bed of reeds and 
grass, to the extensive prospect we now enjoyed, 
was truly enchanting, and seemed more like a fairy 
land than the country of faithless savages. 

The difference in respect of scenery, to what we 
witnessed before, was remarkably beautiful. Here 
the river rolled majestically on, and extended its 
clear surface as far as the eye could reach, without 
being incumbered and shaded with the trees and 
dense masses of foliage, which we observed in our 
first day's journey. The sun was already high in 
the heavens, and its rays shot fervently down on 
our uncovered heads. The poles had been laid 
aside, and our men occasionally assisted at the 
paddles, urging the canoe on at a rapid rate. 

Having proceeded for some miles in this way, 
we arrived at a small branch of the river, where a 
thick row of trees had mutually entwined their top 
branches together, and formed a long shady alcove. 
In this delightful retreat, which was immediately 



COAST OF BENIN. 



41 



chosen by the master of the canoe, we were 
to breakfast, and giving orders to the men at 
once to prepare the meal, the boat was moored 
to one of the trees, and we breakfasted off Indian 
corn. 

During our simple repast, the canoe men were 
busily engaged in forming an awning over the 
boat, to protect us during the journey from the 
effects of sun and rain. This they accomplished, by 
elevating rods of bamboo in a perpendicular 
position, and covering them with the matting made 
of the fibrous wood, which effectually prevented 
the wet from penetrating, and at the same time 
sheltered us from the burning rays of the sun. 

As soon as these necessary precautions had been 
completed, we again set forward on our journey, 
proceeding up the main branch of the river. On 
either hand the margin was bounded by lofty 
trees, the growth and foliage of which surpassed, in 
beauty and variety, all we had seen before. The 
stupendous oak of the growth of centuries, with its 
extended arms and colossal trunk, around which 
climbed the various tendrils of the forest, stood 
prominent on the banks, and threw its broad sha- 



42 



TRAVELS ON THE 



dow across the stream. Beside it the stately palm 
shot up its tall stem and tufted top, whilst between 
them, here and there, might be seen the wild pine 
apple, of more humble stature indeed, but riot less 
beautiful. Plants and flowers of all kinds and 
every class, pencilled by nature's hand, of glowing 
colours and delicious fragrance, studded the ground. 
Nor did inanimate nature alone furnish objects to 
interest our attention : as we proceeded on, we 
saw numberless monkeys sportively leaping from 
tree to tree, and gamboling together, unconscious 
or careless of our presence. Birds, whose plumage 
emulated the colours of the rainbow, perched on the 
branches, which spread over the stream, and filled 
the air with charming melody. The parrot and 
trumpet bird, with their full note, joined in the cho- 
rus ; the latter especially well deserving the name 
it bears, as its ample and full tuned throat sends 
forth a sound so nearly allied to the tone of the well 
known instrument from which it receives its name 
All nature, animate and inanimate, contributed 
largely to render the country through which we 
were passing a sort of paradise. Here the fancy 
of the poet might have revelled in delight, and the 



COAST OF BENIN. 



43 



pencil of the artist transferred to the canvass some 
of nature's fairest landscapes. The morning was 
beautiful and every thing around luxuriant, wild, 
and glorious. 

Proceeding onwards we arrived at a little spot of 
dry ground, and met a canoe coming out of the 
bush. The natives who were in it had just shot a 
wild pig on this little island, and offered to sell a 
portion of it to our crew. This they readily ac- 
cepted. It was boiled, and we made a hearty meal 
of it, the flavour nearly resembling boiled beef. 
As the shades of evening began to draw in we 
could plainly hear the roaring of tigers, with 
their young, and the savage bark of the fierce 
hyena, who prowled about to devour and allure its 
unwary victim, uttering piercing cries like those of 
a child in distress. 

This was very different music to the melody 
which charmed us during the day ; and, as the 
evening advanced, a feeling of indescribable terror 
came over me, of which I could not divest 
myself. 

The sun had almost run his course in the heavens, 
and was lingering a moment in the glorious west, 



44 



TRAVELS ON THE 



as if to increase our admiration of the splendour of 
his setting, 

" Resting on the horizon's verge ; 

The distant mountains wearing crowns of gold, 
Like vassal kings, arose to guard his throne." 

In Africa that beautiful object, the setting sun, 
may be gazed at for a length of time without ex- 
periencing any of that pain in the organs of 
vision, which the contemplation of it universally 
causes in England, and other countries of similar 
latitude. 

Twilight is of very short duration, and if the 
moon does not shine darkness soon covers the 
earth. On the night in question, the moon rose 
about midnight, and shed its pale silvery light on 
all around, previously to which, every object had 
been shrouded in impenetrable darkness, save one 
spot. The canoe men having gone on shore, 
had lighted a large fire to frighten away the wild 
beasts, and were about to stretch themselves 
around it for the night. They had requested 
me to join them, but fearful of the consequences, 
and deeming myself more secure on the water, I 



COAST OF BENIN, 



45 



refused, and with a few of our party remained in 
the canoe. 

Sleep, at this early period, was out of the ques- 
tion, as the musquitoes were ready to eat us ; as 
soon, therefore, as the moon arose, I sat up, and 
contemplated the scenery around. 

Almost all the remarks respecting the sun were 
here applicable to the moon ; and in all my previous 
wanderings I do not recollect ever seeing this 
planet look so beautiful, as at various times I have 
seen it here. She possesses a soothing, softening, 
influence, of which the natives themselves appear 
susceptible, taking advantage of the clear cloudless 
night for sporting and relaxation. The night of 
which I am now speaking, was not, however, re- 
markable for its clear blue sky • for large masses of 
fleecy clouds interposed, and incessantly flitted 
across the face of the pale planet, foretelling the 
approach of rain. But when she did sail uninter- 
ruptedly through the field of blue, the scene was 
lovely. A flood of pale light seemed poured down 
to each glade and alley of the forest, and as it fell 
upon the silvery bark of a weeping birch, a reful- 
gent and almost kindred light was darted back, 



46 



TRAVELS ON THE 



while the less dazzling brightness which it im- 
parted to the bark of the gigantic oak to which our 
canoe was moored, caused the broad mass to rise 
in strong relief from the dark shadow in the back 
ground. Ever and anon too, as a ray shot through 
the branches overhead, the dew upon the long 
grass sparkled as if each drop had been a liquid 
diamond. 

The huge tree that hung over us had thrown a 
deep shadow on our canoe and all that were 
stretched out in it, and the consciousness that we 
were invisible to all save him who had caused "the 
moon and stars to rule the night," dissipated, in a 
measure, my fears and apprehensions. At a little 
distance from us, on a verdant plot of ground, sur- 
rounded by pine trees, blazed the crackling fire 
which the canoe men had lighted, and they were 
now soundly sleeping at the distance of a few feet 
from it, receiving the red glare of light full on 
their broad black faces, which made them look 
more like a tribe of the copper coloured Indians 
than a group of sable Africans. Now and then 
the roar of wild beasts sounded through the woods 
and rang on our ears, the appalling effects of which 



COAST OF BENIN. 



47 



none can conceive unless they had previously heard 
it. But I was now overwhelmed with fatigue. 
There was a tranquil pause, a thick cloud obscured 
the moon, sleep stole heavily over my eyelids, and 
in a few moments I yielded to its influence, 

" Oblivions of all sorrows, griefs, and ills." 



CHAPTER V. 



Early in the morning we were again pursuing 
the course of the river, and used additional exertion 
in order to arrive at some more convenient resting 
place for the night. 

The weather, agreeably with my expectations on 
the past night, was dark and cloudy, and it was not 
long before the rain descended in copious showers. 
Oar awning of mats was now of essential service to 
us ; and the weather seemed to compel the men to 
increase the speed of the canoe, if they wished to 
arrive before night at some place of better shelter ; 
the master of the canoe assisting at the paddles 
himself, and ordering our men to "pull away." 

About four o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived 
that we were approaching some town, from seeing 
a number of wicker fishpots, which were fastened 



COAST OF BENIN. 



49 



to the banks of the river. We could not at first 
conceive the use of them, but on enquiry found 
they were for catching prawns and shrimps. At 
high water the tide overflowed them, and thus the 
fish became taken, which, after being smoked, 
were sent to Benin market. 

The rain had now subsided, and we wished to 
get all the fresh air we could by turning back the 
mats ; but no sooner had we attempted to remove 
them, than the men began to use us very roughly, 
each charging his gun afresh, and making a most 
hideous noise. Our eyes were now opened to our 
situation, and we plainly saw we had been indul- 
ging in false security during the whole of our plea- 
sant journey from Yarcella. 

" So quick trod sorrow on the heels of joy." 

It was now evidently their intention to kill us, 
and make slaves of the blacks, neither of which 
they could have done with such ease at Mongyee 
or Yarcella, fearing, as they did, that the strangers 
from Benin, who were at both these places during 
the time we were there, might hear of it, and that 

E 



50 



TRAVELS ON THE 



it would eventually come to the ears of the gover- 
nor of that capital. But now nothing prevented 
them from immediately accomplishing their wishes. 
We were in a lonely situation, and surrounded only 
by those who were interested in our death, and 
they might have for ever kept it a secret, perhaps 
by sinking us forthwith in the river. 

They stopped the canoe, and the "fetish man" 
produced some cowrys, (or "negroes* teeth," as 
they are sometimes called,) a small shell imported 
from the West Indies. The flat side is white, and 
the convex red. These shells were to decide our 
fate in the following manner : they were to be 
thrown up into the air by this man, and on the 
turn of them our lives depended. 

Having grasped a quantity in his hand he threw 
them up like a careless boy playing at pitch and 
toss, to ascertain whether it was the will of heaven 
that they should immediately shoot us in the canoe. 
Our feelings at this moment cannot be described. 
In an instant the unexpected storm had burst upon 
us in all its unrelenting fury; with tears in our 
eyes we begged the Almighty to soften the hearts 
of the savages, and avert the impending destruc- 



COAST OF BENIN. 



51 



tion. Regardless of our distress they proceeded 
in the dreadful ordeal. The shells fell rattling 
down, and in an instant every eye save our own, 
was bent towards them. We dreaded the conse- 
quence, and simply looked for the first expression 
which would arise on their countenances. The 
fetish man who had thrown them up raised his 
head, and blessed be God, disappointment and 
vexation were most strongly marked on his counte- 
nance. His face was indeed the index of the mind ; 
almost every cowry had turned on the convex side, 
and shewed its flat surface of white. Hope sprung 
up in our breasts ; we thought we were safe, at least 
for the present ; but what was our distress when we 
found he had the cruelty and bad faith to hand 
the shells to the officer next him in command, re- 
questing him "to try his luck." He willingly 
took them, and sitting at the bow of the canoe, did 
as he was requested. Again they fell and turned 
up for life. Their rage and disappointment was 
now unbounded : they stood still and looked at each 
other with countenances full of astonishment and 
vexation ; not even satisfied with this, their second 
appeal to heaven, they determined on a third time, 
d 2 



52 



TRAVELS ON THE 



and actually handed the yet lucky shells to a man 
at the stern of the boat. He threw them, but to 
no purpose; the major part again shewed the white 
side uppermost, and baffled them in their third 
attempt. If ever the power of Divine Providence 
was more apparent in one thing than another, it 
was in this ; the hand of the Almighty had evi- 
dently been " stretched out to save" here, and 
surely we might have said, " In our distress we cried 
unto the Lord, and he delivered us out of our 
troubles." Our thankfulness and joy was beyond 
expression; a feeling of deep and fervent grati- 
tude pervaded our bosoms, which language cannot 
describe; in a word it was " the motion of a hid- 
den fire that trembled in the breast." 

With apparently great reluctance they again 
took their paddles, and proceeded onwards. Fresh 
woes we soon found were in store for us, as the 
town they were going to belonged to a noted 
robber chief, called "Navrey." His nefarious 
practices had instilled terror into the hearts of all 
the neighbouring chieftains, while his piracies 
were so well known to all the natives that they 
never dared to pass before his dominions in their 



COAST OF BENIN. 



53 



canoes without laying their whole business before 
him, and craving permission to go on their way 
unmolested. 

This was the man to whom we were shortly to 
be given up ; and from his hands we could expect 
no mercy ; they had, from all we could learn, 
been deeply imbrued with the blood of his fellow 
creatures at different times, and we saw no chance 
that greater lenity would be extended to us. 

Filled with melancholy forebodings, we were 
propelled unconsciously along till we arrived oppo- 
site the town of the pirate Navrey. It is pleasantly 
situated on an island, which is nearly circular, and 
about a mile in diameter, containing a popula- 
tion of about five hundred ; a people warlike, athle- 
tic, and trained to arms from their youth; who 
from their courage and prowess, favoured by their 
local situation, and governed by their "Island 
king," have risen to a degree of independency 
which none of the surrounding tribes can boast of* 
We approached the shore, and found a consider- 
able number of the natives congregated together to 
receive us. The canoe men having landed and 
proceeded to the governor to announce our arrival. 



54 



TRAVELS ON THE 



returned with orders for us immediately to appear 
before him. A chill of horror now came over us : 
uncertain of the reception we should meet with, we 
hesitated to obey, and exclaimed that we were 
willing and ready to die where we were, but would 
not go on shore with them to endure what new tor- 
tures they might be pleased to impose upon us. 
Little, however, did this affect them, save that they 
became more infuriated, and insisted on our 
immediately leaving the canoe. It would have 
been madness to contend against them, so we were 
obliged to submit. This was a trying moment for 
all of us, but we prepared to meet our fate with 
calmness and fortitude. There was no prospect of 
the crew being taken, the object being to make 
slaves of them ; but for ourselves we feared there 
was but little chance that we should ever again 
meet them on earth ; we gathered around the poor 
sorrowful blacks, and took a hasty but affectionate 
farewell of them ; bidding them publish our fate, 
and the manner of our death, in whatever country 
they might be hereafter enslaved, so that these 
tidings might reach the owner of the vessel ; but 
more than this, the sad story of our woes might at 



COAST OF BENIN. 



55 



length reach our dear relatives and friends, who 
might otherwise be subject to painful suspense 
if left in ignorance of our fate. 

I had then but little time for reflection, but I 
felt a degree of relief to my aching breast when 
the poor fellows gave me their earnest assurances 
that they would, if possible, convey such tidings to 
our dear friends at home. There was not time for 
the words of Cowper to have been uttered, but the 
sentiment found an echo in my bosom. 

" My friends do they now and then send 

A wish or a thought after me 1 
Oh tell me I yet have a friend, 

Though a friend I am never to see." 

Impressed with such feelings I moved on towards 
the hall of justice, (or "palaver house," as it is 
termed,) accompanied by my fellow prisoners, the 
mate, &c, like criminals going to the place of exe- 
cution. Having entered the room, I was at once 
struck with the person of the chief; his stature, 
mien, and deportment, at once bespoke him to be a 
ruler and governor. He was about five feet nine 
inches high, his limbs well formed, and of beautiful 



56 



TRAVELS ON THE 



proportions. He was surrounded by many of his 
people, who were all, like himself, well made, 
robust, and of the most exquisite symmetry, differ- 
ing from him only in complexion, theirs being of 
the blackest jet and glossy as ebony, whilst his was 
a paler and more subdued stain, approaching to that 
of an American Indian ; which, contrasted with his 
pearly teeth, well formed mouth, and overarching 
brow, beneath which his small dark eye darted 
forth an eagle glance of scrutiny, formed a counte- 
nance well calculated to inspire a beholder with 
profound dread, if ever he had previously heard of 
the character of the man. 

On approaching this robber chief we all fell 
down on our knees before him, and earnestly beg- 
ged he would have compassion on us. Our sup- 
plicating posture and earnest cries for mercy, 
touched the heart which we had deemed encased 
in "tripple brass," the silken cord of pity drew 
him from his purpose, and in a moment he was 
"a man and a brother," moved with the spectacle 
of white men (perhaps the first he had ever seen) 
on their knees, with eyes suffused with tears, and 
imploring protection in supplicating strains. He 



COAST OF BENIN. 



57 



rushed toward us, desired us to seat ourselves 
in the apartment, and, evidently overcome by 
what he had witnessed, demanded of the men 
the bag of cowrys which had been so repeatedly 
tried against us, and with one of his chiefs hastened 
from the apartment to consult these silent oracles, 
and decide on our fate. We remained in a dread- 
ful state of suspense for about a quarter of an hour, 
during which time, the savage canoe men were 
all seated before us, with their muskets loaded, 
ready to execute the commands of their superior. 

When he returned, a smile irradiated his coun- 
tenance, his stern brow became relaxed, and the 
dark piercing eye beamed with benevolence and 
kindness. In his hand he held two bottles of rum, 
and approaching us, took us to his bosom, and 
by the most affectionate and significant gestures, 
intimated his intention of being our friend and 
protector. This was unexpected indeed, and a 
source of utter astonishment to all. The inhuman 
canoe men seemed to feel the same surprise, but 
instead of evincing gratitude for our deliverance 
they were doubly incensed against us ; having 
brought us to the lion's den, and ca§t us in, they 



58 



TRAVELS ON THE 



had with breathless expectation waited to see us 
consumed. They had placed us in the furnace 
they had deemed seven times heated, but our God, 
to whom we cried, sent his angel and stopped the 
lion's mouth, and around and about us in the 
furnace of destruction, "was one like unto the 
Son of man." They had hoped, agreeably to their 
orders, to have taken our heads back with them, 
and now blamed themselves for having ever let 
us out of their hands. They had seen the effect 
of our supplication on our bended knees, and tried 
the experiment themselves before the chief, beg- 
ging that he would again put us into their hands ; 
but he sternly refused, and prevented further im- 
portunities by adding, that they had better look 
well to themselves; for that if they had not been 
slaves he would certainly keep them prisoners. 
This produced an admirable effect ; they took the 
hint at once, proceeded to their canoes, and kept 
close by them during the night. In the morning, 
as early as dawn, they returned to their town, 
having landed the crew and left them to follow, us. 

The chief kindly ordered a room to be fitted, 
and desired us to be conducted to it, promising us 



COAST OF BENIN. 



59 



before parting that he would send us on to Gatto. 
We repaired to our apartment, which we found 
very comfortable, being covered with various 
handsome country cloths. Shortly after our arrival 
he sent us some sheep, and some plantains, and 
we felt happy in being thus unexpectedly delivered 
from death and the hands of our most relentless 
enemies. 

During the night we slept very comfortably, 
except that I was occasionally disturbed, by the 
dysentery, by which I had recently been attacked 
in the country, and was still subject to its in- 
fluence. The following morning we awoke re- 
freshed and comparatively happy, and made a 
hearty breakfast off our mutton and yams. A 
Portuguese vessel was here lying in the river ; the 
chief allowed the supercargo to go with a commu- 
nication from me to the captain, requesting he 
would permit us to come on board to sleep until we 
could receive some assistance from the king of 
Benin, and in return we would assist him in rigging 
and other work connected with the ship. On the 
return of the supercargo, however, we found the 
captain was then at Gatto, and the mate could not 



60 



TRAVELS ON THE 



give us an answer on the subject. In the course 
of the day the clerk inadvertently happened to 
mention the fact of there having been some brass 
pans in the canoe which had been taken from the 
wreck. I had noticed them in the canoe, and con- 
sidered they were sent as a present to the chief 
Navrey from the neighbouring state ; but it ap- 
peared the canoe men had taken them back again. 
He was much enraged when he found this to be 
the case, and native spirit and love of plunder was 
strongly marked on his countenance. With a stern 
voice he demanded why we had not made him 
acquainted with this fact before. We feared ex- 
ceedingly, at this moment, that he might, in his 
state of disappointment and rage, wreak his ven- 
geance on us in the absence of the real authors 
of it. 

The town in a few moments seemed in a state 
of alarm, and canoes were immediately launched 
on the river, filled with men, well armed, to 
proceed after the fugitives, and bring them back. 
But it was to no purpose, and they returned in 
the afternoon, without being able to come up 
with them. We regretted exceedingly not hav- 



COAST OF BENIX. 



61 



ing mentioned the circumstance earlier ; for they 
might then have overtaken them, and made a 
prize of the whole, which the natives seemed 
to value exceedingly. We were very uneasy 
about the business, the whole of the day ; but 
were relieved in the evening by a visit from the 
chief, who brought with him another bottle of 
rum, and sat some time with us in our apart- 
ment, conversing with us ; and on parting, promised 
to send the clerk and supercargo to Gatto on 
the morrow, whilst I should remain, together 
with the mate and crew, in our present abode. 

On the following morning, agreeably to ap- 
pointment, we found a large canoe was prepared, 
and at ten o'clock they started, accompanied by 
the chief himself, together with the linguist, in 
order that it might be seen what could be done 
for us at Benin. 

In the evening the chief and interpreter re- 
turned, but the former had met with rather a 
singular adventure. Shortly after his arrival at 
the town of Gatto, it appeared that a messenger 
from the king of Benin was also there, to enquire 
respecting, us, with orders to punish those who 



62 



TRAVELS ON THE 



had engaged in making us prisoners. While he 
was in the midst of prosecuting his enquiries, our 
friends, with the chief, stood before him. The 
messenger immediately concluding we were his 
prisoners, and that he had been accessory in 
plundering the ship and cargo, ordered him to 
be taken into custody, and would have shot him 
immediately, but for the timely interference of 
the supercargo. 

The prejudice was so strong against the chief, 
that it was with the greatest difficulty his release 
was obtained; but on the representation of the 
supercargo, that he had been instrumental in 
saving all our lives, and rescuing us from the 
hands of our enemies, he was allowed to depart, 
after having promised to send me with the crew 
to Gatto, and given two near relatives as host- 
ages. He returned home much enraged, im- 
mediately summoned a council of his prin- 
cipal men, (Omagardies,) and related the 
indignities which had been offered to him. By 
their violent gestures it was evident that they 
were exceedingly exasperated by the treatment 
their prince had received from the hands of the 



COAST OF BENIN. 



63 



Benin messenger; and we were not without our 
fears again, that they would turn upon us, to 
atone for the insult which we had been the 
unhappy means of bringing on the head of our 
protector. 

After a short time had elapsed, they seemed 
a little more calm and collected; and the chief 
having ordered a bottle of rum to be brought, 
very familiarly sat down with us. Through the 
medium of our interpreter, we told him that we 
hoped he would not blame us for the ill-treat- 
ment he had received on our account, and pro- 
mised when we left we would give him a " good 
book :" this is a written character, which they 
prize very much. The supercargo had written 
a note by him, wherein he advised me to come 
immediately to Gatto, and not proceed to "Bow- 
bee," a town at the mouth of the river Benin, 
belonging to the king of " Werre," who had 
sent for us to come thither. A further inducement 
to proceed to the former was the kindness mani- 
fested by the natives towards him; he therefore 
urged me to leave on the ensuing day. On this I 
mentioned my wish to the chief Navrey, and he 



64 



TRAVELS ON THE 



promised me that it should be as I desired. I 
was much pleased, during my stay in this place, 
with the liberality and frankness of the chief, as 
well as of those by whom he was surrounded. 
He seems a ruler possessed of absolute power 
amongst them, and will allow no canoes to pass 
his territories without being first acquainted 
with the nature of the business of those who are 
in them. 

The houses of this town are built very closely 
together, and the inhabitants appear as one 
family. They are as black as jet, but the bold- 
est and finest race of people we saw in the 
country. Few are less in stature than five feet 
nine inches ; their carriage is erect and grace- 
ful in the extreme, and we never once saw a 
deformed person among them; on the contrary, 
we noticed several pre-eminently remarkable for 
their symmetry. One in particular, whom, by 
way of distinction, we used to call "the hand- 
some man," was fully entitled to that appella- 
tion. He was about twenty-two years of age. 
His features seemed cast more in the European 
mould, being interesting and well proportioned; 



COAST OF BENIN. 



65 



his teeth were regular, and of pearly white- 
ness ; small feet and knees, and a well-formed 
leg : when walking, he used his sword as a 
stick, and with his gun resting on his right 
shoulder, he presented an unusually graceful 
appearance, and would have been an excellent 
model for the pencil of the artist, or chisel 
of the sculptor. This character applies only 
to the men ; the women fall infinitely below 
them in respect of personal beauty and pro- 
portion ; their bodies are moreover tat-tooed 
with various grotesque figures, and disgusting- 
marks, which combine to render them very 
inferior to their lords in graceful comeliness. 
Their principal occupation is weaving mats, fish- 
pots, &c, in which they excel. The boys are 
very early initiated into the arts of war and the 
use of arms ; they use the bow and arrow with 
surprising dexterity, and seldom fail hitting their 
mark even at a great distance ; nor are they less 
celebrated in the use of the gun, which they 
hold in a peculiar manner. For fear of accident 
they never bring the piece to the shoulder, but 
place the left hand against the end of the stock, 

E 



66 TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 

thus supporting it by the hands only. On one 
occasion, I was a witness to the superiority of 
this plan over the ordinary method. A man 
discharged his piece, and it burst, and shivered 
the barrel in pieces, whilst he did not sustain the 
slightest injury : had he fired as we are accus- 
tomed to do, his arm would have been shattered, 
and his life endangered. 



CHAPTER VI. 



On the morning of the 17th July, I rose 
at an early hour for the purpose of pursuing my 
journey to Gatto, according to the instructions 
of the supercargo. During the night I suffered 
greatly from the dysentery, and the mate was also 
labouring under the same dreadful disease. We 
however prepared for our journey, and were just 
on the point of starting, when a canoe arrived 
from the king of Werre, with orders for us to 
come to Bowbee. It was some time before they 
arranged this affair ; but as Navrey had promised 
to send us to Gatto, and had given hostages for the 
performance of his engagement, it was, after the 
lapse of an hour, settled that we should proceed 
thither without further delay. 

e 2 



68 



TRAVELS ON THE 



The canoe prepared for us was a large one, 
and was well manned with some of the chiefs 
finest subjects, completely armed, and furnished 
with every necessary for our journey. We were 
anxious to reach Gatto, and having recovered 
from the alarm occasioned by the arrival of the 
messengers from Bowbee, we were in better spirits, 
and we stepped into the canoe which was wait- 
ing for us, with somewhat lighter hearts than 
when we first put foot on this spot. Our land- 
ing had been marked by grief and the forebod- 
ings of despair ; the aspect of the heavens above 
us were lowering and dark, and our minds were 
alike beclouded with fearful anticipations of a dis- 
mal issue. Now the heavens beamed with bright- 
ness, corresponding, in some respect, with those 
rays of cheering light which dispelled the mist 
of dejection and despair, and promised a better day. 
Being seated in the canoe, the men immediately 
commenced propelling her along. The town of 
Navrey gradually receded from our view, and at 
the turn of the river was wholly hid from obser- 
vation by a dense mass of intervening foliage. 
The further we proceeded into the interior, the 



COAST OF BENIN. 



69 



more lavish nature appeared to have been with 
her gifts. The water seemed more pelucid, and 
reflected objects with great precision and certainty. 
At times we proceeded on through a vast ex- 
panse of the clear element resembling a beautiful 
lake, whilst the banks seemed to shew a series of 
pigmy harbours and mimic bays ; sometimes the 
extreme end of the sheet of water appeared to 
possess • no opening, but on approaching to the 
extremity, a little outlet might be visible, just 
sufficient for the boat to pass along ; the margin 
on either side seemed a beautiful parterre, so 
rich and rare were the flowers that bloomed 
around us. Often did our course appear as if 
interrupted by some lovely and enchanting bank. 
But these, which we expected would arrest our 
progress, were but slight accumulations of soil 
borne on the still bosom of the waters of that 
river, from which a thousand water plants, in 
naval pride, shot up their tall stems, and long 
glossy leaves. Flowers, of colours passing fair, 
expanded, as if to court the gaze of an unclouded 
sky, and receive the first beams of the rising 
sun. Delightful indeed was it, whilst passing 



70 



TRAVELS ON THE 



through this undulating garden, trembling with 
the slight swell occasioned by the dipping pad- 
dle, to witness the numerous swarms of butter- 
flies and humming birds that peopled the air, 
and decorated the leaves and flowers of every 
waving plant. 

Again the river opened broad to our view, and 
we perceived in the distance a vessel, which, on a 
nearer view, I found to be the Portuguese schooner, 
to the captain of which I had sent the super- 
cargo a few days previously, requesting per- 
mission to come on board. Here the men stop- 
ped the canoe, and went on board, having some 
mats to sell. I accompanied them also, and was 
kindly received by the mate ; who informed me 
that they came there to purchase a cargo of the 
country manufactured cloths, and ivory, for the 
island of St. Thomas. As soon as they had 
finished trading, the men again entered the 
canoe, and we proceeded on to Gatto. 

At three o'clock we arrived, and there found the 
supercargo and clerk waiting for us. They had 
been kindly treated by the governors of that place, 
and accordingly presented us to them shortly after 



COAST OF BENIN. 



71 



our arrival. The governors were habited much in 
the same style as their brother potentates, and wore 
coral round the neck, arms and wrists, but none on 
the head, as we first noticed at Yarcella. All spoke 
a little English, and seemed willing to cultivate an 
acquaintance with us. After presenting us with 
some red goora nuts as a token of friendship, we 
were allowed to retire to the lodging prepared for 
us. Our host, the master of the house, a sympa- 
thising, kind hearted man, was a " Tantee," or 
native of Cape Coast, and could speak English 
very intelligibly. 

The town of Gatto is large, but built without 
any attention to order or regularity, the houses 
being for the most part scattered or erected where- 
ever a clear spot of ground might have presented 
itself; for the place is extremely woody, and 
abounds with numerous lofty cocoa-nut trees. The 
huts are rather larger than those we had previously 
seen, being about ten or twelve feet high on the 
inside, and some of the halls about forty feet long 
and twenty broad. They are for the most part 
built of clay and surrounded by walls of the same 
material. The roof is covered with branches of 



72 



TRAVELS ON THE 



the bamboo tree ; in the centre is a hole which 
serves the purposes of window and chimney. 
Through this hole the rain also falls, and is received 
into a large square tank immediately underneath, 
and conveyed away underground by channels from 
one room to another. 

These apartments are almost totally devoid of 
furniture; even the necessary articles of chairs, 
table, and stools, are rarely to be found ; although 
if we might judge of their skill by some chests we 
saw, which were formed out of a single block of 
wood and hollowed with singular neatness and 
precision, I should say they would make very 
clever carpenters, if not cabinet makers. 

Their beds, which consist of mats, with a cover- 
ing of coarse cotton cloth, are placed on the ground 
in a recess in the wall ; which often serves also 
as a depository for their fetish. 

During the rainy season they sit around a small 
fire, kindled on the floor, without any thing to 
enclose it, and the smoke escapes through the aper- 
ture in the roof ; where generally may be seen sus- 
pended their war drum, together with earthen 
vessels, and various articles of fetish. The doors 



COAST OF BENIN. 



73 



are hung much in the same manner as a ship's 
rudder, the hinge being formed of wood resembling 
a spigot and fosset. 

On the third day after our arrival in this town, 
we received orders to go to Benin and present 
ourselves to the king ; but my health had been gra- 
dually declining for some days past. My clothes 
were in a very filthy state, and the shirt I wore 
had not been washed for nineteen days. In conse- 
quence of remaining naked whilst it was washing, 
my health and strength were so much impaired, 
my mate also being indisposed, that it was deemed 
prudent for us to remain at Gatto. The super- 
cargo and crew therefore proceeded without delay 
to Benin, in order to see what the king would do 
with us. 

They were absent about six days, during which 
time I was extremely ill. I thought, and even 
hoped, that every hour would put a termination to 
my sufferings. My body was wasted almost to a 
skeleton, and I could scarcely support myself, 
even with the help of a stick. 

On the return of our friends the joy I experi- 
enced somewhat cheered my mind, and alleviated 



74 TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 

my pain. They prevailed on me at the same time 
to eat some unripe guavas, a species of plum 
which grows in the woods at this place, and is 
frequently used in the West Indies to cure the 
flux. This produced the desired effect; and as I 
continued to eat them in their green state, my 
health and strength gradually returned. 

I was much gratified at the kindness shown to 
the supercargo and crew by the king of Benin. 
He required a full account of all the circumstances 
connected with the loss of the vessel, and the 
conduct of the natives toward us, and further 
requested a written list of the cargo, which was 
furnished him. During the recital he seemed 
highly incensed and astonished at the barbarity of 
the Mongyee people, and promised immediately to 
dispatch messengers to that place to endeavour to 
recover some of the property; and further said 
that we should be sent in about ten days time to 
Badagry, by the way of Lagos, to the owner of 
our vessel, who had a factory established in that 
place, and from thence we could easily procure a 
passage to our native country. 



CHAPTER VII. 



We waited for the performance of the king's 
promise ; as it will be seen, many weeks, during 
which time we suffered the greatest privation. 
We were daily buoyed up with the hope of 
our departure, the people assuring us that the 
messengers would soon arrive, as the orders 
had been given for the canoes, and they would 
not be long making. 

At this time, a Portuguese schooner arrived, 
to purchase a cargo of ivory and cloths, for 
a considerable town on the coast, called Wydah, 
and the owner kindly promised us a passage 
to that place, as soon as the vessel should be 
ready to sail again, which, however, would not 
be for at least three months to come ; but even 



76 



TRAVELS ON THE 



this was desirable, and we looked forward to 
the certainty of getting away after that period, 
if the king did not send to us before. 

Our situation was truly deplorable. We were 
without shoes to our feet; our linen was ex- 
tremely filthy and disgusting; we were tormented 
by musquitoes day and night, subject to all 
kinds of hardships, with bad lodging and worse 
living. John Johnson, the mate, exposed alike 
to the same calamities, and subject to the same 
privations, got worse and worse every day. 
He did not appear to be in violent pain, but 
his appetite was very keen, and this is always 
considered a bad omen. He seldom arose 
from his miserable bed in the recess, and 
suffered greatly from depression of spirits, which, 
with the ravages disease was making on him, 
reduced him to a mere shadow. I have often 
lain by his side on the mat, and endeavoured 
to rouse and cheer him ; telling him how much 
I had suffered, and that he was not even so 
bad as I was then ; but it was to no purpose, 
and it seemed in all probability a few days 
would terminate his career of pain and suffering- 



COAST OF BENIN. 



77 



I determined, therefore, immediately to pro- 
ceed to Benin myself, and see the king ; con- 
ceiving, it might have been the neglect of his 
ministers that had caused our being detained 
so long beyond the time he had specified. 
Accordingly, I started in the morning, with two 
men, who were to carry me in a hammock 
slung on a pole, and borne on the shoulders. 
But my sufferings during this journey cannot 
be described ; language is inadequate to con- 
vey what I went through on this occasion. 
Scarcely had we proceeded five miles on our 
journey, when we were overtaken by a tornado. 
It seemed as if the elements were fiercely con- 
tending together; the wind blew sudden gusts, 
tearing up trees, and scattering devastation 
around us : the thunder roared most awfully, 
and the lightning gleamed fearfully in the heavens. 
Soon the rain descended in torrents, and from 
the narrowness and badness of the road, I 
was obliged to get out of the hammock, and 
wade through mud and water up to my knees. 
Whilst I was doing this, the hammock men 
proceeded on before me, and quickened their 



78 



TRAVELS ON THE 



pace, so that they soon got beyond the reach 
of my voice, and left me to draw my weak 
and emaciated frame through the boggy and 
rugged path. It was here I felt the misfortune 
of being poor ; had I possessed a single bead 
or button, they would have stopped in a mo- 
ment ; but I had nothing about me, and was 
obliged to submit to their cruelty. I was ex- 
hausted by fatigue, and really wished the Al- 
mighty would put an end to my misery. How- 
ever, I managed to follow them some miles, 
and at length came up with them, and again 
got into the hammock. It was completely 
drenched with rain, and being warm with my 
exertion, I was seized with the most violent 
cramps, which often obliged me to scream and 
jump out of the hammock. It was as if the 
icy hand of death had taken hold of my vitals, 
so acute was the pain. 

The rain was still descending in torrents on 
my defenceless head, and a long dreary jour- 
ney of twenty miles remained to be performed. 
My soul seemed to faint within me. We at 
length reached a small town, where there was 



COAST OF BENIN. 



79 



a room provided for the accommodation of travel- 
lers. Here they kindled a fire, which seemed 
like new life to me; and having dried myself, I 
partook of a mess of "fu-fu," with a keen rel- 
ish. After this, we all lay down to rest, in our 
little apartment, miserably huddled together ; the 
house, being a public one, and a sort of half- 
way resting place for travellers from Gatto to 
Benin, called by the natives, "Grooms." 

Early on the ensuing morning we departed for 
the capital, the road to which is extremely narrow, 
and lies through a very extensive wood. The 
trees which bounded our path on the right and 
left were immensely large, and of towering alti{ude. 
The rain had not ceased, and the road was a com- 
plete quagmire all the way, and so slippery that I 
often feared that the men who bore me would fall, 
and that I should be precipitated in the mud, 
They seemed, however, accustomed to the roads, 
and as a security, each carried a long staff, with 
which he walked, to provide against a fall. As 
we approached the end of our journey, the road 
got worse and worse ; the path in some places not 
being wider than the sole of the shoe. It was also 



80 



TRAVELS ON THE 



situated on the top of a bank, the sides of which 
sloped off, and by the continual fall of rain, being 
a red clay soil, was so slippery, that I chose rather 
to walk than run the risk of having my neck 
broken. There was not actually sufficient room 
for both feet together on this elevated African road, 
and we were obliged to put the heel of one foot 
to the toe of the other, alternately, in order to make 
any progress whatever. At length we reached the 
end of the wood, and a large plain opened before 
us, which was overgrown with Indian grass. In 
the distance we perceived the town, which resem- 
bles a number of barns, each house being sur- 
rounded with clay walls. "We arrived at the house 
belonging to the " Captain of War," in the sub- 
urbs, and had an interview with him. On being 
ushered into his presence, I was surprised to see a 
youth of about sixteen, seated on a stool in a large 
hall, and surrounded by a number of venerable 
chiefs, most of whom were four times his age. I 
afterwards found that his father, who held the situ- 
ation, had recently been sent to conduct the war in 
the interior, and had fallen in battle; the office 
therefore devolved on the son, who is next in rank 



COAST OF BENIN. 



81 



to the king. As soon as I entered, he approached 
me, and as a token of friendship presented some 
gooras in a long wooden box, beautifully carved 
and ornamented. I was then conducted to a 
smaller and more private apartment, where he or- 
dered a glass of rum to be brought to me ; and 
asked a series of questions, through the medium of 
his interpreter, respecting the loss of the cargo and 
ship, and seemed to take great interest in what was 
communicated to him. After this, he showed me 
his magnificent robes, and large hat, (which re- 
sembles that which is worn by the London coal 
porters,) with apparently great delight ; he being 
the only person, besides the king, who is permitted 
to wear such a badge of distinction. He asked if 
I had any like it in my vessel, or clothes such as 
his robes. I replied that I had clothes, but not 
like his. The supercargo when he visited him 
had given him a tune on the flute, which delighted 
him so much that it was with the greatest difficulty 
he managed to get away. 

It excited my surprise to see here two or three 
small pieces of cannon, of British and Portuguese 
manufacture ; but they were not mounted, and had 

F 



82 



TRAVELS ON THE 



perhaps been procured as models for imitation, as 
the country abounds in iron ; but from the expense 
attendant on working the mines, there is, compara- 
tively speaking, very little wrought to perfection. 
I saw, however, some swords of their own manu- 
facture, which were very well turned out of hand ; 
and was credibly informed they could make mus- 
kets, with the exception of the lock, in great perfec- 
tion. We left this place, and proceeded to the town 
of Benin, which is only a mile distant ; and about 
the middle of the day arrived at the " alien house,' ' 
the appointed place of residence for strangers. 

Having taken some refreshment, I sent to the 
king announcing my arrival, and shortly after I 
was waited upon by an officer of his Majesty, who 
came to present the king's service to me. He was 
curiously habited, wearing a sort of short petticoat 
from the waist down to the knees, composed of a 
cloth very much valued by them, resembling our 
white bunting. This encircled his loins, and set 
off like an ancient dame's hooped petticoat ; the 
upper part of the body was naked as well as the 
legs and feet; his neck was ornamented with 
strings of red coral. In his hand he held a fan 



COAST OF BENIN. 



83 



made of leather, to keep off the flies, and protect 
him from the rays of the sun. His head was quite 
unprotected, being shaved all over, with the ex- 
ception of a circular spot on the crown, from which 
a small tuft was still permitted to grow. Such was 
the personage who brought the king's "service." 

After his departure I went out to see the town, 
and visited several of the chiefs, who treated me 
kindly, and gave me bamboo wine to drink. The 
houses are decidedly superior to those at Gatto, 
being larger, but for the most part built on the 
same principle. The palace of the king is a large 
building of wood, not unlike one of our British 
shot manufactories, having a tower or steeple at 
one end ; the rest of the building consists only of 
one story ; the whole is surrounded by mud walls, 
which extend some miles. Near it are several fe- 
tish places, the depository of the usual absurd ob- 
jects of worship, skulls, skeletons, and large ivory 
teeth. Many unfortunate slaves are also sacrificed 
at different seasons in front of these temples. From 
this place I proceeded to the market, which is 
a very large one, and the resort of natives from all 
parts of the country. At first sight it presented 
f2 



84 



TRAVELS ON THE 



a busy and animated appearance ; the ground on 
which it is held is a large plain, covered with 
temporary streets, each compartment formed by 
four upright poles, and roofed with large mats. 
Underneath these sheds, are exposed the different 
articles of merchandise, viz., salt, black soap, 
yams, plantains, pins for the hair of very rough 
manufacture, and various other articles. 

A quantity of monkey's flesh attracted my at- 
tention, from the paws and nails which were ex- 
posed ; and dogs, goats, and sheep, were here in 
abundance, as also many articles of European and 
even British manufacture ; for which they exchange 
slaves, numbers of whom I saw chained in the 
market ready to be conveyed by the first oppor- 
tunity to the sea shore. I returned in the evening 
from my solitary ramble, and retired to rest after 
partaking of a mess of "fu fu." 

The following morning I again proceeded to the 
market, where I found a large assemblage of peo- 
ple. Their attention was at once directed to me, 
and I was doubtless looked upon as a sort of "rara 
avis " among them. Their astonishment was great, 
but I question whether it was equal to mine when 



COAST OF BENIN. 



85 



I perceived among the swarthy group which sur- 
rounded me — what? a human being whiter than 
myself, in a word, if the expression may be used, a 
white negro. 

I had then ocular demonstration of the truth of 
the assertion, that modern discovery has shown us 
that the sun is not the sole cause of the dark colour 
of the skin, since light coloured nations are found 
inhabiting the warmest regions, dark nations in- 
habiting the coldest countries ; and that people of 
various shades of colour may exist together in the 
same climate ; such as the red Peruvian, the brown 
Malay, and the nearly white Abyssinian, in the 
very zones which the very blackest people inhabit. 

The "Philosophical Transactions " contains an 
anecdote which will authenticate this part of the 
Narrative, whilst the assertion herein contained 
will fully prove the truth of the statement I am 
about to quote. " A man and his wife (negroes) 
resided in the interior of the country, where Euro- 
peans had never been seen, yet from time to time 
the wife produced a white child* Fearing her hus- 
band's resentment, she endeavoured to conceal it ; 
but the man insisted on seeing the infant : it was 



86 



TRAVELS ON THE 



produced, and immediately on his beholding it, he 
exclaimed, "I love it the better for that, because 
my father was a white man, although my grand- 
father and grandmother were both as black as my- 
self ; and although we come from a place where no 
white people are ever seen, yet there was always a 
white child in every family that was related to us." 

I was not sufficiently curious to enquire into the 
" family affairs " of this singular young man, fur- 
ther than that his father and mother were both 
black. His head was shaved to the crown, where 
a small tuft of white wool was allowed to grow, just 
like that on the back of a lamb, or the tail Of 
a white poodle dog ; his eyes were of a beautiful 
pink, and shaded with a light brown eye-brow. 
The light affected his sight in a considerable de- 
gree, and he was unable to see clearly during the 
middle of the day. He was the only one I noticed 
of such singular peculiarities, in the town, although 
I met several persons perhaps equally curious, 
whose bodies were covered with spots of black, 
white, or brown. Near the market I perceived 
three fine horses grazing, and, it being rather an 
unusual sight, I enquired to whom they belonged ; 



COAST OF BENIN. 



87 



I was answered, that they were the king's; but they 
had not been ridden for some time, and the natives 
were now afraid to mount them. I returned to my 
lodgings, and found the king had sent a sheep and 
some yams for our use. These were great dain- 
ties, and I made a hearty meal. [In the middle of 
the day I went to the palace, and had an audience 
of the king. Here I perceived more of the pomp 
of power, and pride of royalty, than I had hitherto 
been witness to. On entering the apartment 
I perceived his Majesty ; a fine, stout, hand- 
some man, with something of kingly dignity 
about him. He was clothed in a long robe, 
and wore a large hat, ornamented with gold 
lace. Several chiefs in full dress surrounded him, 
besides a body guard on either side, with drawn 
swords. On my approaching him, he held out his 
arm, which three young princes stepped forward 
and supported. I stated that my business with 
him was to remind him of the promise he had 
made two months since, viz., that he would send us 
away in about ten days ; that we were anxiously 
waiting for the arrival of his messengers, under cir- 
cumstances of great privation and distress; my 



88 



TRAVELS ON THE 



own health being very bad, and the mate's in- 
finitely worse ; that I. feared the latter would fall a 
victim to the disease of the country, unless speed- 
ily removed; and further, that we were a great 
burthen and expense to the man with whom we 
lodged, and had nothing wherewith we could re- 
pay him. He listened very attentively to my 
request, and replied, by his linguist, that he would 
most certainly send the messengers to us on the 
morrow, at Gatto, and that I had better return im- 
mediately to my old lodging, and wait their arrival, 
as he feared I might get sick in Benin. He then 
retired with his attendants, and shortly after sent 
me a bottle of rum, and some butter in a dish ; the 
latter is esteemed a great mark of respect. 

The better to insure the performance of his 
promise, I went to see the messengers, who I un- 
derstood were to conduct me to the coast. They 
all promised fairly enough, but unfortunately, no 
dependence could be placed in them. They are a 
slothful and very dilatory set of people, and will 
only act agreeably to their feelings, and the 
impulse of the moment. I left them, and deter- 
mined on returning the next day, which I immedi- 



COAST OF BENIN. 



89 



ately made known to the hammock boys, that they 
might be in readiness. 

Not long after my interview with the messen- 
gers, I was standing in the principal street. I 
noticed one of them coming towards me, perform- 
ing the most extraordinary gesticulations. At first 
I thought him mad, for he danced and capered 
through the street, followed by a great many per- 
sons who seemed to partake in the same feeling of 
joy or madness. He exhibited first one leg then 
the other, alternately, extended his hands, and then 
pointed to a string of coral which encircled his an- 
cles and wrists. The fact was, the king had made 
a "gentleman" of him, having bestowed an hon- 
our similar to our knighthood, and placed the in- 
signia of his order, the coral, round his legs and 
arms. He was anxious that every body should 
see it, and displayed all the vanity and pride of 
a child when he is first breeched. 

On the following morning I departed, and walked 
from Benin to the residence of the captain of war. 
He received me again very kindly, and made me 
partake of a boiled fowl and some dumplings, with 
bamboo wine to drink. After my meal, he brought 



90 



TRAVELS ON THE 



forward some written characters, given him by- 
Portuguese captains, which he prized greatly, and 
requested me to give him one also to add to his 
stock. He was in fact a collector of autographs. 
I complied with his desire and afterwards drew a 
vessel and man's head for him. Nothing could 
exceed his joy; he took the pencil from me, sup- 
posing perhaps there was some inherent virtue in it 
which caused it to form the representation, and he 
handled it so curiously that I could not refrain 
from laughing outright. I had no time to spare, 
and therefore took leave of this interesting youth, 
and proceeded on my journey. 

The weather had now cleared up, and the road 
was in a much better state for travelling than when 
I last passed over it. We arrived, in the course of 
the afternoon, at the half-way house alluded to 
above, and passed the night together in the same 
apartment as before. The next morning we re- 
sumed our journey, and proceeded through the 
dense wood which we before traversed, till, coming 
to a very narrow and bad part of the path, I was 
obliged to get out of the hammock. It was not 
long before I perceived the men had made a dupe 



COAST OF BENIN, 



91 



of me again, for they walked away as fast as pos- 
sible, and left me to crawl on after them as before. 
The road was dreadfully rugged, and I could 
scarce put one foot before the other. I endea- 
voured to come up with them, but all attempts 
proved useless. 

Overcome with lassitude and fatigue, I was 
about to lie down under one of the broad spread- 
ing trees, and yield up my jaded and troubled 
spirit into the hands of my God. At this moment 
the inhuman rascals halted, and waited for me to 
come up to them. I had just sufficient strength to 
enable me to crawl to their feet. I was indignant 
at their ^brutality, and snatching a sabre from the 
hand of one I extended it toward him, at the same 
time requesting him to put a termination to my suf- 
ferings on a block of wood that accidentally lay by 
the road side. Both the men looked at each other 
in surprize at my extraordinary but earnest re- 
quest ; they seemed touched by my despairing 
look, and immediately lifted me into the hammock. 
"Whilst I had been walking along the road, I met 
several persons who were coming in the opposite 
direction : with them was a dog, which immediately 



92 TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 

on seeing me stood still. He had never seen a 
European before, and knew not what to make of 
me; doubtless deeming me some supernatural 
being, he stood in dumb astonishment, with his 
eyes fixed on me, and his tail between his legs ; as 
I gradually approached he ran off into the woods, 
evidently frightened at the singularity of my person 
and colour. The men went on very well during the 
remainder of our journey, and I arrived safe at 
Gatto about three o'clock in the afternoon. I de- 
tailed all that has been recently mentioned, respect- 
ing my journey and interview with the king, to my 
anxious comrades, and proceeded immediately to 
the bed-side of my mate. 



CHAPTER VIIL 



I found poor Johnson decidedly worse, and 
evidently sinking under his violent disease. To all 
human appearances he could not survive many 
days, and I felt it my duty, seeing there was no 
hope, to disclose to him my feelings, and exhort 
him to prepare for his last change, and doubtless to 
him, happy release from a bed of disease and suf- 
fering. I therefore gradually unfolded to him my 
opinion that he could not be much longer in this 
world, and earnestly prayed that he would without 
delay prepare for a better. For several successive 
days he lingered in great pain, but exhibited the 
greatest fortitude, resignation, and humility. The 
first thing I did after rising in the morning was to 
approach his miserable mat, and feel his hand, en- 
quiring, at the same time, (if he happened to be 



94 



TRAVELS ON THE 



awake,) how he had passed the night. At times I 
sat by him, and conversed, by the hour, of home 
and happier days. A hope of his recovery would 
now and then light up his pale and emaciated 
brow; but again on looking around, and seeing 
the miserable furniture of his apartment, and his 
dirty bed in the recess, so different from that of his 
little hammock in which he reposed near my cabin 
in the " Henry,' ' then it was — 

— "in these dwellings he became a thing 

Restless and worn, and stern and wearisome : 
Drooped as a wild born falcon with cleft wing, 
To whom the boundless air alone were home. 
Then came his fit again, which, to overcome, 
As eagerly the barr'd up bird will beat 
His breast and beak against the wiry dome, 
Till the blood tinge his plumage, so the heat 
Of his impeded soul would through his bosom eat." 

It was on the 25th of September (1825), as I 
was in the hut, I saw the bed clothes were off him, 
and immediately ordered one of the men to replace 
them, as he was asleep, and would sometimes lie in 
that manner for hours without moving or speaking. 



COAST OF BENIN. 



95 



A short time after this I went, agreeably to my daily 
custom, to feel his hand, and presuming he was 
still asleep, I cautiously approached, and took his 
unresisting hand in my own. What was my surprise 
and distress when I found it cold, stiff, and heavy ; 
a glance on his countenance, and I saw he was 
dead. The man who had but a short time pre- 
vious covered him with the clothes, assured me he 
was then living ; he must have therefore died 
shortly afterwards, and I can aver it was without a 
groan. His spirit had departed like the morning 
stars which 

" Melt away into the light of Heaven." 

At the early age of 24, he was cut off by that 
dreadful disease, the dysentery, so common to the 
country in which we were detained. His body 
was a mere skeleton, and it was almost surprising 
that he existed so long as he did. 

I ordered the corpse to be washed, and then de- 
cently laid out, which, having been done, I im- 
mediately proceeded to the governor, and reported 
his death, and requested he might be speedily 
buried. He said that should be done, but we 



96 



TRAVELS ON THE 



must first pay him two jars of rum as a fee, for 
'breaking the ground/ The master of our house 
and the supercargo were at Benin that day, but I 
expected their arrival hourly, and hoped as soon 
as they came we might be able to settle the affair. 
They arrived at about five o'clock in the afternoon, 
and we all proceeded to the governor, and after a 
long argument with him, obtained consent to bury 
the deceased by the side of the unfortunate, but 
enterprising traveller, Belzoni. 

The spot selected, was an interesting one, and I 
felt a degree of consolation, not unmixed with pride, 
that the ashes of my departed friend should repose 
near those of so remarkable a man. The grave of the 
traveller is roofed over with a neat shed of bam- 
boos, and a rude, but neat paling surrounds it, in 
order that no wild beasts may approach the sacred 
mound. 

A board is erected at the head, which has an 
inscription to this effect, that "All travellers are 
requested to keep up the grave of so great a man 
as Belzoni" 

Close beside the grave, a wide spreading tree 
flings its branches over the sacred dust, and at 



COAST OF BENIN. 



97 



the trunk a rude bamboo seat. Under its sha- 
dow I have sat for hours, musing on the fate of 
the deceased traveller, and reading his memorial. 
He too, fell a martyr to the dysentery, whilst on 
his way to Timbuctoo. Yes ! this was the sim- 
ple tomb, of the man, who, with unwearied dili- 
gence and toil, had entered and explored the 
tombs of Egyptian kings, the mighty depositories 
of a race of Pharaohs ; — beheld the* hewn cham- 
ber and its sculptured sarcophagas in pristine 
beauty, and sent many a trophy of the wonder- 
ful achievements of ancient Egypt, to a land, 
where, in her National Museum, they now stand, 
proud monuments of the skill, not only of the 
Egyptian, but of him who ventured health, pro- 
perty, and life, in the one darling object of 
his chosen labour. 

All that now remained to him, was the little 
mound by my side, and the simple, unosten- 
tatious monument bearing his name ; presenting, 
indeed, a wide contrast to the huge piles of 
Memphis and Thebes. 

" He heeded not the lavish rhyme, 
And costly pomp of sculptured garnish vain ; 

G 



98 



TRAVELS ON THE 



But fondly covenanted with his friend 

To lay his bones beneath the sighing bough 

Of some old lonely tree." 

Near this grave is another, containing the re- 
mains (as I learned from the monument) of a 
Mr. Hill, who came in a vessel, the " John 
Cato," to trade with the king of Benin. Every- 
thing seemed to promise his realizing a fortune 
in this enterprise, but he was taken ill of the 
fever, and died. 

Between these two graves we buried the mate, 
John Johnson. The evening was far advanced 
before the grave was completed; we therefore 
approached the spot, (a little band,) to perform, 
after the manner of the country of the dead 
man, the duty of interment. There were none 
of the insignia of mourning, — no hearse with 
its nodding plumes aud painted escutcheon, or 
even decent train of sable mourners; we stood 
round the grave, about six in number, the corpse 
on one side, whilst I officiated as chaplain. 
Having no prayer book, I endeavoured to re- 
collect as much of the burial service as pos- 
sible ; the audience were attentive beyond mea- 



COAST OF BENIN. 



99 



sure ; all was hushed and silent ; the sun was 
resting on the extreme verge of the western 
horizon, — it seemed to linger for a moment, to 
throw its last golden ray upon the pale coun- 
tenance of the departed, and cheer the hearts 
of the little group that surrounded his remains. 

I commenced, it was a series of broken pas- 
sages, but from their constant use they suggested 
themselves to me at that moment much after 
the following manner: "I am the resurrection 
and the life, saith the Lord; he that believeth 
in me, though he were dead, yet shall he live, 
and whosoever believeth in me shall never die, 
" I know that my Redeemer liveth, and that 
he shall stand at the latter day upon the 
earth; and though after my skin worms destroy 
this body, yet in my flesh shall I see God." 

Gazing on the prostrate corpse, the next 
passage that suggested itself was, c< We brought 
nothing into this world, and it is certain we 
can carry nothing out ; the Lord gave, and the 
Lord hath taken away, — blessed be the name 
of the Lord ! Forasmuch it pleased Almighty 
God to take unto himself the soul of our dear 

G 2 



100 TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 

brother here departed, we therefore commit his 
body to the grave." 

The lifeless corpse was then deposited^ in the 
ground, and whilst the red earth was scattered 
on its fellow dust, we paused — a tear suffused 
every eye, and all stood silent in heartfelt grief. 

The noble luminary of day was just sinking 
below the horizon, when we deposited the re- 
mains of poor Johnson in the grave, and it 
suggested the last words which were pronoun- 
ced over his ashes. 

" There is one glory of the sun, and another 
glory of the moon, and another glory of the 
stars ; for one star differeth from another star in 
glory, so also is the resurrection of the body, 
it is sown in weakness, it is raised in glory !" 

The sun of our dear friend had gone down 
at noon day ; but we trusted, like that setting 
orb of the west, it would again arise, clothed 
with beauty. Impressed with this hope, I took 
a last look at the corpse of my friend in its 
narrow home, and with the rest of my party 
returned to my habitation. 



CHAPTER IX, 



Day after day now passed without bringing 
us any hopes or tidings respecting our departure. 
True, on one occasion we were much gratified 
to hear of the arrival of vessels in the river; 
and expecting that one might be the " Harriet/' 
belonging to our own employer, sent in search 
of us, we immediately proceeded to enquire. 
But we were deceived, and found the vessels 
arrived were Portuguese schooners engaged in 
the slave trade. 

Another obstacle prevented our leaving, even 
had the king been inclined to send us away. 
It was the hostility of the " Lagos" people to 
Europeans, in consequence of three of the king's 
wives having been killed by a party of Bri* 



102 



TRAVELS ON THE 



tish sailors in one of our boats, who were sent 
there to prevent the slave trade. 

The chiefs were therefore so incensed, that 
they vowed to kill the first white they could 
lay their hands on. 

We were consequently not very anxious un- 
der such circumstances to proceed to Badagry 
by the way of Lagos, as had been determined 
on by the king of Benin. It was about this 
time that I witnessed a strange ceremony, pe- 
culiar to this people, called the time of the 
" grand devils." Eight men were dressed in a 
most curious manner, having a dress made of 
bamboo about their bodies, and a cap on the 
head, of various colours, and ornamented with 
red feathers taken from the parrots' tail ; round 
the legs were twisted strings of shells, which 
made a clattering noise as they walked, and 
the face and hands of each individual were 
covered with a net. These strange beings go 
about the town, by day and by night, for the 
term of one month, uttering the most discord- 
ant and frightful noises ; no one durst venture 
out at night for fear of being killed or seriously 



COAST OF BENIN. 



103 



maltreated by these fellows, who are then es- 
pecially engaged in driving the evil spirits from 
the town. They go round to all the chiefs 
houses, and in addition to the noise they make, 
perform some extraordinary feats in tumbling and 
gymnastics, for which they receive a few cowries. 

About the same time I saw a man who had 
given himself as a sacrifice to the fetish. A 
procession was formed, in all the splendour pe- 
culiar to these occasions, and the man was 
conducted amid a vast concourse of people to 
the river . Here, according to the usual cus- 
tom, they affix weights to the devotee's body, 
make him drunk, and sink him in the tide. 
As some sort of compensation, however, to the 
poor fellow, he was allowed for some time pre- 
vious to his being offered up, the privilege of 
going into the market whenever he felt inclined, 
and helping himself to whatever he fancied. I 
often saw him enter the market, but directly 
the women espied him coming, they invariably 
caught up their baskets and ran away. The 
natives have a Gurious way of finding out a 
thief by a kind of " fiery ordeal it is as 



104 



TRAVELS ON THE 



follows: a fire being lighted in front of the 
fetish house, they place an earthen pot on it, 
filled with some combustibles, which blaze like 
wild fire, and at the bottom of this a small 
cowry is placed. 

All the inhabitants are convened around this 
fire, and the master of each family surrounded 
by his household, all of whom place their hands 
on his back, at once proceed to take the shell 
out of the burning pot. If he manages to get 
it out without burning his fingers he is at once 
declared innocent ; but, on the contrary, if he 
fail, he and all his family are immediately pro- 
nounced guilty, and each individual member is 
obliged to go through the ordeal. Whoever in 
attempting to take out the shell, therefore, burns 
his fingers, is immediately declared to be the 
thief, and punished accordingly. 

Another mode, equally singular, is occasion- 
ally resorted to. The persons suspected are 
made to kneel down on the ground, and each 
one puts out his tongue. The fetish man im- 
mediately covers it with a certain mixture, and 
places over the surface a small leaf. He then 



COAST OF BENIN. 



105 



takes a feather, and endeavours to push the 
quill part through the tongue, if he succeeds 
and can draw the whole of the feather clean 
through, the party operated upon is at once 
declared innocent ; but should he fail in the first 
attempt to push the feather through, the poor 
creature at once suffers the extreme penalty of 
the law. 

This is a shocking and most revolting spec- 
tacle for an Englishman to witness, which I never 
could look on but with feelings of horror 
and disgust; although the natives assured me 
it was not much pain, and the wound soon healed. 
They put great faith in this last mentioned trial, 
and often cause the thief to walk about the town 
as an example whilst the wound is unhealed. 

We had almost despaired of ever getting 
away from this place , when, on the 18th of 
October, the man with whom we lived, informed 
us that the captain of the Portuguese schooner 
before mentioned was going to sail, and had 
agreed to take all of us except the crew to 
Badagry, and that the latter should be sent 
by the king in canoes through Lagos, the 



106 



TBAVELS ON THE 



first opportunity. We eagerly embraced this 
offer, and after taking leave of the chiefs, (a ce- 
remony I hope never to perform again,) we 
embarked on the morning of the 21st, and im- 
mediately set sail. My feelings, on once more 
being at liberty may be better conceived than 
expressed ; my heart beat high with the hope 
of again seeing dear happy England ! 

We proceeded down the river, being oc- 
casionally towed along, till the evening, when 
we came to anchor, and went to rest. Our 
sleep was now sweet and refreshing, although 
we had hard beds, and coarse accommodations. 

The following morning we again set sail ; 
but the weather being showery, we experienced 
great inconvenience from being exposed to the 
wet, having only a shirt and pair of trowsers 
each, to defend us from the rain ; we however 
continued to amuse ourselves and keep up our 
spirits by means of our old friend, the flute. 
In the evening we again came to anchor; the 
night was very bad; vivid lightning and tre- 
mendous claps of thunder prevailed, nearly till 
the dawn of the following day. The morning of the 



COAST OF BENIN. 



107 



23rd, however, opened promisingly ; the air was 
fresh and invigorating, and the water, beautifully 
clear and calm, gradually extended wider and 
wider as we proceeded, sometimes impelled by the 
morning breezes, and at others by the aid of 
oars, till we came in sight of the mouth of 
the river, where we saw several vessels which 
we subsequently found were slave traders. 

At nine o'clock p.m., we anchored abreast of 
ff Wackow's town." The thousands of mus- 
quitoes which came off from this place so an- 
noyed us, that we found no rest here for the 
night. The sting of this insect is found not 
only to be annoying but dangerous ; I was 
told, the governor of Cape Coast Castle was 
obliged to have his leg amputated, in con- 
sequence of a bite or sting he received from 
one of these little insects. 

At seven o'clock on the morning of the 25th, 
we weighed anchor, and run down abreast of 
the town of Bowbee. Here we again drop- 
ped anchor, and were honoured with a visi 
from the governor, Hamacoo, with his linguist, 
Silvester, They expressed their regret that we- 



108 



TRAVELS ON THE 



had not visited the king of Werre, who, they 
assured me, would have seen justice done us ; 
and offered, if we felt inclined, to take us to 
that place, and shew us the king, that we 
might judge for ourselves as to his character, 
and be convinced that it was their wish to 
trade with Europeans. 

Bowbee, is a noted place for carrying on 
the slave trade ; I saw two schooners and a 
sloop, and went on board of them. They were 
crowded with men, women, and children, slaves, 
all naked, but appeared in good spirits. This 
perhaps arose from their not being at that time 
in confinement, as they enjoyed the whole range 
of the vessel. 

In the evening we got under weigh, and waited 
for the ebb tide, to float us over the sand bar, 
which extends across the mouth of the river, 
or rather the bay, it being about seven miles 
from the termination of the river. Great cau- 
tion should be observed in coming from the 
westward, not to approach the land nearer than 
ten miles, or there is very great probability of 
running on the bar. The mouth of the river 



COAST OF BENIN. 



109 



is not very conspicuous ; the principal mark I 
could discern, to indicate it, was a clump of 
trees at the western point of entrance, one of 
which very much resembled an umbrella in ap- 
pearance. It took us about two hours to beat 
over the bar, and after succeeding, we en- 
countered a very severe squall, accompanied 
by heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. This is 
an extremely dangerous spot, and I found, 
about the same time we met with our mis- 
fortune, a French brig, with three hundred 
slaves on board, was wrecked on this spot. 

The three following days we were out of 
sight of land. I took the altitude of the sun 
at noon, and found the lat. to be 6° 14' N. 
I therefore represented to the captain, that it 
would be necessary to keep nearer land or we 
might pass Badagry, the place of our destination 
on the coast, 

He however persisted in his own plan, in 
keeping off the land, although I repeatedly 
shewed his error. 

We shortly after experienced a series of 
fresh gales, which, from the appearance of the 



110 



TRAVELS ON THE 



clouds and general aspect of the heavens, I 
plainly foresaw would come to something worse, 
and every moment expected a heavy gale of 
wind would overtake us. I then requested the 
captain to reef the mainsail, as the vessel be- 
gan to plunge ; but he was so well convinced 
of his own tactics, and imbued with notions 
of the infinite superiority of his plan over mine, 
that he made light of my repeated warnings, 
and told me to go below, out of the rain. I 
felt extremely hurt that he would not be ad- 
vised, and accordingly went below as he de- 
sired ; but I had not been down long before 
the gale came on with redoubled fury, and the 
captain being alarmed had lost all presence of 
mind, and lowered all the sails. 

The vessel therefore lay entirely at the mercy 
of the waves, which were now breaking over 
her at all points ; in another moment she made 
a dreadful roll, everything was set adrift, and 
all was consternation and confusion. I fore- 
saw that another such would send us all to a 
watery grave; there was no time for counsel 
or compliment. In a moment I jumped on the 



COAST OF BENIN. 



Ill 



deck and found the captain had in his agitation 
left the helm, and ran forward. Instantly I seized 
the helm, and took myself the command of the ship. 
I immediately ordered the foresail to be hoisted, 
which was done, and this righted the vessel, and 
kept her from foundering. The waves were run- 
ning very high, and every moment a tremendous 
sea would break over the ship, carrying before it 
every thing that was loose on the deck. I never- 
theless felt confident we should be able to ride out 
the gale, provided it did not increase. After some 
time the violence of the storm abated, and the poor 
black captain came to me to express his gratitude 
for the assistance afforded him in his distress. He 
had delayed wholesome advice so long that when 
my predictions came true, what with his pride, the 
instantaneous approach of the storm, and his gen- 
eral incompetency, he was struck " all of a heap," 
and in reality knew not what he was about. We 
had here again experienced a signal deliverance in 
time of danger, and we had again great reason to 
thank God for our preservation. After having es- 
caped death in so many shapes, we were not a little 
apprehensive that we should find, in the fury of the 



112 



TRAVELS ON THE 



storm this day the consummation of our woes, and 
a termination to the buffeting of life. Towards the 
evening of the day the weather cleared up and we 
again set all sail. 

Our accommodation in this vessel was not the best 
that can be imagined ; we were huddled together 
in a small cabin, not more than 6ft. by 4ft., and the 
decks being leaky, when it rained, or a wave hap- 
pened to break over the vessel, we were subject to 
the delightful enjoyment of a shower bath. In fact 
to use an Irishism, we were often obliged to 
"come in the rain to keep ourselves dry." Our 
food was also the coarsest that can be imagined, it 
consisted of a large " cat fish " salted, (a very rank 
and coarse species of the finny tribe,) which we ate 
with boiled yams. There was a time when my 
stomach would have loathed such food ; but now, 
(as the blacks who were with us would say,) 
" Hungry belly yam something." Ah! thought I, 
remembering the parable of the Prodigal Son, (as 
who has not,) under circumstances of privation, 
u How many hired servants of my father's have 
bread enough and to spare, and I perish with 
hunger !" 



COAST OF BENIN. 



113 



On flie 1st November, the wind being S.W., as 
we were making a long board along the coast, I per- 
ceived a sail nearer than ourselves to the shore. 
I prevailed on the captain to go in and speak with 
her. On coming up with her we found she was 
lying at Little Po Po, and proved to be the Albert, 
belonging to a Mr. Houtson. We requested the 
master to send his boat for us, which he did, and I 
obtained permission from him to stop on board 
that night, purposing in the morning to wait on Mr, 
Houtson, a British merchant residing there, and 
see what he could do for us. In the course of the 
evening we found there was then on board a 
puncheon of rice for the Henry, my late vessel, 
which was to be delivered to us by the captain, 
should he be fortunate enough to fall in with us. 
This was exhilarating news, and we doubted not 
of procuring a passage. We slept very comfort- 
ably during the night in our new apartment, and 
eagerly looked forward to the result of our applica- 
tion to Mr. Houtson on the morrow. 

About 10 o'clock on the morning of 2nd Novem- 
ber I left the vessel in a boat, but scarcely had we 
proceeded half way to the shore when we were 
overtaken by a tornado, accompanied by torrents 

H 



114 



TRAVELS ON THE 



of rain. The tornado is generally attended here 
by heavy rain, which is altogether unlike anything 
in Europe ; it penetrates, soaks and dissolves every 
thing exposed to it. The effects of a tornado seem 
to disturb and alarm all nature ; an arch is gene- 
rally seen to arise in the sea, and when it reaches 
the zenith it explodes with tremendous fury, ac- 
companied by electric fire, deluges of rain, and 
gusts of wind which tear up every thing before it ; 
fishes leap from the sea, beasts fly in all directions, 
birds scream in the most dismal manner, and 
every animated thing gives signs of terror and dis- 
may. Notwithstanding the fury of this sudden 
storm, with the exception of a thorough soaking, 
we reached the shore in safety. I shortly found, 
however, to my no small mortification, that I had 
to wade up to my middle through a river which 
runs across the road leading to Mr. Houtson's re- 
sidence. This was a most fatiguing and painful 
duty ; already soaked to the skin, I could not be 
much worse off as far as being immersed in water 
went ; but the fatigue of wading through a deep 
stream, and afterwards of the piercing cold caused 
by a light wind, so chilled and benumbed me, that 
I was ready to sink on the ground from faintness 



COAST OF BENIN. 



115 



and languor. The guide who accompanied me 
seeing the state I was in, wisely urged me on, and 
kept walking before at full speed in order to keep 
my blood in circulation. At length I arrived at 
the house but was not able to articulate a word, 
from a fit of the ague which came on me. 

The generous master of the house, seeing my 
agitation, ordered some dry clothes and a little 
rum to be brought. This revived me, and after 
changing my clothes, I detailed to him the cause 
of my unexpected visit. He sympathized with me 
and very kindly offered all of us a passage to Cape 
Coast. I thanked him and stated the only return 
we could make would be to lend assistance in 
working the ship. 

I dined and supped with him, and in the even- 
ing was accommodated with a bed ; the first I had 
been in, worthy that name, for many months. 

The next morning, the weather being very fine, 
(which is always the case after a tornado,) I was 
deputed to go on board, in charge of some ivory, 
and carried with me a note to the captain from 
Mr. Houtson, with permission to remain on board 
till the vessel should land me at Cape Coast. 
h 2 



CHAPTER X. 



I eemained on board the Albert till the 28th 
of November, when an opportunity offered for me 
to go to Sierra Leone, leaving the supercargo and 
the others, with Mr. Houtson. Captain Clapper- 
ton's expedition, to discover the termination of the 
Niger, was proceeding on towards Badagry, where 
they intended to land, and not far from Sierra Le- 
one they had captured a Spanish brigantine, which 
was waiting to receive a cargo of slaves from the 
coast. They accordingly fell in with us at Little 
Po Po, or Papoe, where the slaves were confined. 
As soon as the officers landed from the ship the 
slaves were demanded to be given up ; but the king 
obstinately refused to deliver them. The officers 
then briefly told him that, unless they were immedi- 
ately produced, his town would be cannonaded, he 
himself and his son taken prisoners, and the slaves 
seized by main force. This seemed to alarm him 



TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN. 117 

a little, and induced him to pay a little more 
respect to the imperious summons of English- 
men; and the unfortunate people were shortly 
after ordered to be liberated. The slaves when 
they made their appearance exhibited a long line 
of melancholy faces and emaciated frames, wasted 
by disease and close confinement, and by having 
suffered dreadfully from scantiness of food, and the 
impure air of the prison-house. They were 231 in 
number, men, women and children ; in a complete 
state of nudity and heavily manacled. Several of 
them were lamed by the weight of their irons, and 
their skin sadly excoriated from the same cause. 

The poor creatures evinced the liveliest joy on 
being made acquainted with the favourable turn in 
their affairs, and the gratitude they displayed to 
their deliverers was natural and sincere. Arrange- 
ments were speedily made on board the prize for 
their accommodation, and that vessel which was to 
have borne them to perpetual slavery in a remote 
region, was employed to convey them to hundreds 
of their countrymen at Sierra Leone. It was a pe- 
culiarly favourable opportunity for me to arrive at 
the same place, and I did not hesitate a moment to 



118 



TRAVELS ON THE 



embrace it ; especially as I learned from the com- 
manding officer of the Brazen (the vessel in which 
the mission was sent out) that a master was wanted 
for the "Lively/' a brig bound from Sierra Leone 
to London. 

I went on board the Brazen and was kindly re- 
ceived by the officers of the ship and the gentle- 
men of the mission, viz. Capt. Clapperton, Dr. 
Morrison, Dr. Dickson, Capt. Pierce, and Mr. 
Richard Lander. Their kindness I shall never 
forget. They gave me up their hammocks and 
cloaks, and endeavoured in a variety of ways to 
render me service. The following morning I wit- 
nessed their going on shore to prosecute the object 
of their mission. Mr. R. Lander has so faithfully 
and beautifully described the occasion that I shall 
be pardoned for giving it entire from his narrative. 

" Previously to their landing, the gentlemen of 
the mission and officers of the ship assembled to- 
gether on the quarter deck to take a final farewell 
of each other. There was something so moving in 
the pathetic spectacle of Englishmen parting under 
a strong persuasion, almost amounting to a convic- 
tion, of meeting no more in this world, in seeing 



COAST OF BENIN, 



119 



the manly resolution and stubborn indifference of 
British officers combating with the tender and more 
amiable feelings of human nature, that I myself, 
(says Mr. Lander) could with difficulty stifle my 
emotion, and, to dispel the gloom which hung upon 
my mind, I bade the officers a hasty and respectful 
adieu, and shaking hands with many of the honest 
seamen on deck, I sprang into a canoe that lay 
along-side the Brazen, and as two of the natives 
were rowing it towards the shore I took the oppor- 
tunity of playing 

' Over the hills and far away,' 

on a small bugle horn which I had brought with 
me. This elicited the admiration of the sailors of 
the ship, and I landed amidst the hearty cheers 
and acclamations of them all." 

No English boat or a canoe of the ordinary form 
can possibly live, even a single minute, in the 
dreadful surf that rolls along the shore, and the 
natives have canoes of singular construction, and 
exceedingly strong. They are of immense thick- 
ness, and manned, sometimes by nineteen men, who 
are well skilled m the art of rowing. On every oc- 



120 



TRAVELS ON THE 



casion, a fetish man, covered from head to foot with 
gris gris, (a sort of charm or amulet made of leather,) 
stands in the bow, invoking the spirit of the waters 
to be propitious, and quell the raging of the sea. 
He continues alternately watching the motion of the 
billows, and praying in a low mournful tone, till 
the boat reaches the shore, when thanks are im- 
mediately returned to the water-divinity. When he 
* fancies his petition has been heard, the fetish man, 
catching a favourable opportunity, suddenly claps 
his hands in a transport, and exclaims, with vio- 
lent gesticulation and wildness of manner, ' i yaw, 
i yaw/ (now is the time, now is the time) which in- 
spires his countrymen in the canoe with fresh en- 
ergy, and dashing the padddles into the water, they 
propel their enormous bark through the foaming 
waves with incredible swiftness 

The travellers being all safely landed they pro- 
ceeded into the interior of the country accom- 
panied by my kind friend Mr. Houtson, who left 
them at Katunga, and returned to the coast; where, 
almost immediately on his arrival, he was seized 
with the fever, and expired after an illness of only 
a few days. One by one the others dropped off, 



COAST OF BENIN. 



121 



and at last the party was reduced to Mr. Lander 
alone, who was a solitary being among a race of 
selfish, perfidious, and barbarous strangers, in the 
interior of a country 115 days' journey from the 
sea coast. After surmounting innumerable obsta- 
cles, and experiencing the most painful privations, 
he arrived at Badagry, and like myself, after wait- 
ing for some time, fell in with a vessel. His feel- 
ings on again seeing his countrymen, and gaining 
his liberty, accord so much with my own when in 
similar circumstances that I feel pleasure in quoting 
them. 

" My heart bounded within me at the sight of 
the proud banner of my country streaming from the 
stately mast of the 'Maria,', and a signal being 
made, a boat was without loss of time, despatched 
to my assistance. 

"I was soon on the water; and as the little 
bark moved slowly towards the ship, although 
my appearance was pitiable in the extreme, the 
yards were instantly ordered to be manned, and 
three tremendous cheers from the throats of British 
seamen, welcomed me once more to the dear 
society of my gallant countrymen. This was 



122 



TRAVELS ON THE 



ravishing melody to my ears; it was the hap- 
piest and most rapturous moment of my life. 
I hastily climbed the sides of the vessel, and 
springing delighted upon the conscious deck, 
returned thanks to the Almighty for my preser- 
vation, and shook hands heartily with the cap- 
tain and crew. But, as sudden and violent 
transport is seldom lasting, and I could not 
help reflecting a very few minutes afterwards 
how different, how very different had been my 
feelings in the same place about two years be- 
fore. As a noble tree growing in strength and 
flourishing in beauty, is suddenly blasted by 
lightning, which scathes the verdant foliage, and 
destroys the vital principle, even so had I seen 
a party of British officers, proud of their native 
rocks, wither and die. They had planted their 
feet on African soil, full of fine spirit and noble 
enthusiasm, scoffing at peril, and determined to 
overcome every human obstacle that might ar- 
rest their progress in the accomplishment of their 
hazardous undertaking ; that great object of their 
ambition, to which the eyes of millions were 
directed. A few months only had elapsed when 



COAST OF BENIN. 



123 



their elevated hopes and buoyant feelings were 
quenched in darkness, their manly frames 
shrivelled like the tree, from irremediable causes, 
till, unable long to drag their slow length 
along, they had languished and fallen, and the 
sound of their voices was heard no more. They 
had resigned their burden of life, sorrow, and 
suffering, and were transplanted to that un- 
known country, where ' the wicked cease from 
troubling and the weary are at rest.' " 

I must now return more immediately to my 
own narrative. The foregoing extracts from the 
work of the only survivor of that mission, will 
give a faint outline of the subsequent history 
and fate of those gentlemen, who treated me 
with so much kindness on board the prize ; 
and did everything in their power to alleviate 
my suffering in my distressed and lone situation ; 
little indeed did I then think, that hereafter, 
I should have to record in my simple narrative 
the deaths of all the party.* 

* Since this was written, information has been received 
of the death of Mr. Lander ; in a subsequent expedition he 
was shot by the natives, or Portuguese. 



124 



TRAVELS ON THE 



On the 30th of November, we set sail for 
Sierra Leone, in the slave ship (Nimfa,) which had 
been captured by the Brazen, with her cargo of 
two hundred and thirty-one emancipated slaves. 

The coast of Sierra Leone, is on the whole 
singularly picturesque ; trees in great number 
and variety, of magnificent dimensions and luxu- 
riant foliage, adorn the face of the country ; 
the apparent beauty of which, is infinitely 
heightened by the number of small villages 
embellished with lovely trees, dotting the bor- 
ders of the sea, amongst which the stately palm, 
both on account of its peculiarity and elegance^ 
must ever hold a distinguished place. Thick forests 
are also spread over the landscape, the gloomy 
shade of which, contrasted with the smiling 
verdure of cultivated plains pleasantly studded with 
clumps of cocoa and other trees, and enlightened 
by a brilliant sun ; a variegated and unrivalled 
picture of rural beauty, which the eye feasts 
upon with peculiar pleasure. 

On the 26th of December I joined the 
" Lively/' at Sierra Leone, and after a pas- 
sage of fifty-eight days arrived at Plymouth. 



COAST OF BENIN. 



125 



It will be needless to spin out the thread 
of this narrative longer; suffice it to say, that 
after an absence of six years, during which 
time I suffered the most extreme hardships and 
severest privations ; the foregoing being only a 
very small portion of the history of my disasters 
after leaving my native country. I at length 
again beheld the snowy cliffs of " that happy 
island in the watery waste;" my feelings at 
that moment may be imagined, but cannot be 
described; the heart leaping with joy in hope 
of meeting all those dear friends whom I left 
behind, then fluttering with anxiety at the 
thought of how many might be missing of that 
number. These, and similar emotions, have 
arisen in the breasts of all persons when under 
similar circumstances ; to my readers I leave 
the task of picturing the state of my feelings, 
on again seeing England's shores, as well as 
the increasing anxiety of my mind when I ap- 
proached the still (to me) dearer shores of 
Plymouth, nearer and nearer. The well known 
spots so familiar to me, familiar, even after so 
long an absence, burst one by one on my 



126 



TRAVELS ON THE 



vision, and seemed to hail and welcome my 
return to the scenes of early days and pleasing 
recollections. 

" Quickly of memory's fount I drank, 
And brought the past all back again." 

In a few hours after opening upon the pros- 
pect I had gained, my vessel was safely an- 
chored within that stupendous structure, the 
breakwater. 

The news of my arrival rapidly spread abroad, 
and I was happy in seeing many of my relatives 
and friends, who crowded in boats around the 
vessel, with voices of the most welcome con- 
gratulation. 

I found that I had long been given c 'up for 
lost," by my anxious friends, no news of me 
having arrived for such a lapse of time. Their 
joy therefore was almost as unbounded as it was 
unlooked for. 

I must here, however, mention that, although 
returned in safety and blest with meeting al- 
most all that I parted from, yet I soon felt my 
constitution suffering from the effects of my 



COAST OF BENIN. 



127 



hardships and the sudden change of climate, so 
that in the midst of my joy I had great reason for 
humiliation. The effects of this change I have 
subsequently felt at times most severely, and 
shall doubtless ever continue to experience to 
the day of my death. 

I prepared to set my foot once more on the 
shores where I had roved when my hopes 
were bouyant and my frame vigorous. On 
leaving the vessel, my heart exulted within me, 
and as the men were urging on the boat over 
the green waves, I almost involuntarily exclaimed 

" Breathes there the man with soul so dead, 
Who never to himself has said, 
This is my own, my native land ! 
Whose heart has ne'er within him burn'd, 
As home his footsteps he has turn'd, 
From wandering on a foreign strand ?" — 

Cold indeed would be my heart, if after the 
signal interposition of an all wise and all mer- 
ciful Providence, I should fail to record my 
gratitude to Almighty God, in closing this 
narrative. Inadequate as I feel to the duty of 



128 TRAVELS ON THE COAST OF BENIN, 

expressing my thanksgiving to Him, who has 
preserved my going out and coming in; yet 
when I remember that a grateful heart is all 
that he requires ; I do feel it a privilege to 
have this opportunity of telling the world my 
joy, and here no language can better convey the 
emotions of my soul, than the beautiful and 
truly descriptive words of the king of Israel in the 
107th Psalm. 

" They wandered in the wilderness in a soli- 
tary way, they found no city to dwell in. Hun- 
gry and thirsty, their soul fainted within them ; 
then they cried unto the Lord in their trouble, 
and he delivered them out of their distress. 

u Then are they glad because they be quiet ; 
so he bringeth them unto the desired haven. 

" O that men would praise the Lord for his 
goodness, and his wonderful works to the chil- 
dren of men." 

i 



D. Cahn, Printer, Arlington Street. 



